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Nothing says natural luxury like pearls: from Chanel to Dior, why high jewellery brands look to the beauty of mother nature

Piaget’s Wings of Light pearl jewellery, combining Akoya white pearls and pink freshwater pearls combine with red spinels from Tanzania, pink sapphires and pink spinels. Photo: Piaget
Piaget’s Wings of Light pearl jewellery, combining Akoya white pearls and pink freshwater pearls combine with red spinels from Tanzania, pink sapphires and pink spinels. Photo: Piaget

  • No single gem has inspired humanity more over the years than pearls – which are enjoying a fresh vogue thanks to these stunning luxury jewellery collections
  • Chopard’s Silk Road and Animal World lines are inspired by the harmony of nature, while depictions of the sky and stars reoccur in Van Cleef & Arpels’ pieces

The delicate beauty of the pearl has held the fascination of mankind since the dawn of time, with no other single gem enjoying such a profound influence throughout history. 

For some, pearls might be a new interest, with diamonds their first love. But if you thought pearls were for your grandmother, think again – jewellery houses are showing the creative ways in which these gems can be worn today. 

From cultured South Sea pearls to Japanese Akoya pearls, jewellers use them all in a fresh and modern manner, in everything from simple strands to chandelier earrings suspended from a diamond-studded setting to sautoir with a gemstone clasp. 

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The idea of celebrating nature has been a preoccupation of jewellery designers, coupled with a play on tradition, in an effort to present lovers of pearl jewellery with pieces that are both wearable and glamorous. 

Classic and evocative, the bubbly stopper necklace in white gold, diamonds and cultured pearls is part of the latest high jewellery Collection N°5 by Chanel, launched this month to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the N°5 perfume. 
The Trifide transformable long necklace. Photo: Van Cleef & Arpels
The Trifide transformable long necklace. Photo: Van Cleef & Arpels
Patrice Leguéreau, director of the Chanel Fine Jewellery Creation Studio, has imagined Collection N°5, the first high jewellery collection ever to be dedicated to a perfume.

Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection of 2020 showcased a playful Parrot necklace with a luxurious concealed clasp in yellow gold and titanium set with a black opal and rubies, diamonds and pink sapphires, on elegant strands of cultured white pearls. 

There’s also a spectacular necklace made of four strings of South Sea pearls and set with diamonds, pink sapphires, black opals, carved onyx, carnelian and jasper, presented in the jeweller’s Silk Road collection. And its Animal World collection uses pearls to a dramatic effect, with cascading pearl tassels ending in diamond briolettes.

Dior pearl jewellery reflecting the harmony of nature. Photo: Dior
Dior pearl jewellery reflecting the harmony of nature. Photo: Dior