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How to find the perfect wedding dress: Kim Kardashian went for the ‘mermaid’ and Meghan Markle opted for A-line – for the best results, always start with your body shape, say experts

A white wedding doesn’t need to be all convention and no fun. Photo: The Loft Bridal
A white wedding doesn’t need to be all convention and no fun. Photo: The Loft Bridal
Weddings

Thanks to Covid-19, a lot of wedding dress shopping has gone online, so we asked the experts for their top tips on choosing the perfect fit, even when you can’t initially try the dress on

We’ve all poured over photos of Meghan Markle’s gorgeous Givenchy gown, and seen how beautiful Priyanka Chopra and Kim Kardashian looked in the shapely lace numbers they chose for their big day, but when it comes to making the big decision for ourselves, shopping for a bridal gown can be a minefield – especially since dress samples come in a rather limited number of sizes. While searching for the gown of your dreams should be a joyous rite of passage for every bride, it can also be a time consuming one, so a few tips from the professionals can help refine the process and give you a good idea about how to get started.

According to Jacqueline Au, founder and creative director of The Loft Bridal boutique in Hong Kong, most gowns fall into one of five shapes: ball gown, mermaid, A-line, trumpet and column. “Brides should always tackle the shape first and details later. The shape and fit of a gown is everything,” she says. “You will then find it a lot easier to focus and won’t be wasting time nitpicking over details in the beginning, such as lace, embroidery or the bow.” And while the bride’s body shape is important, what’s also important is the silhouette she wishes to have in the final look, as well as things she wants to accentuate.

A Vivienne Westwood ball gown. Photo: The Loft Bridal
A Vivienne Westwood ball gown. Photo: The Loft Bridal

The shape will also dictate the choice of material used to make the dress and embellishments. A ball gown is often a go-to for brides who crave a Cinderella moment and want to make a grand entrance. “While the ball gown can create the look of a narrow waist or offset a fuller bosom, this silhouette can be overwhelming on a petite bride,” Au says. But don’t let that deter you – gowns such as Vivienne Westwood’s Bagatelle offer convertible elements such as a detachable tulle petticoat, so those with a smaller frame aren’t swallowed by metres of fabric. “One important thing to note is that the waist is often a bride’s best asset and deserves great emphasis no matter which silhouette you go for,” Au says.
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Custom trumpet cut wedding gown. Photo: Noel Chu
Custom trumpet cut wedding gown. Photo: Noel Chu

Those who find a ball gown too voluminous but wish to show off a nipped waistline may want to opt for an elongating A-line, a less dramatic alternative. If you have curves to spare though, the mermaid will be your go-to option, particularly for those who are tall, as it emphasises the body’s shape. One Day Bridal’s Sadie gown is a good example, plus its minimal embellishments make sure that all eyes stay on an hourglass figure. “But this shape can make a petite woman look shorter, as the skirt does not have a lot of room to flare out below the knee. However, with a trumpet shape, the skirt flares out just below the thigh to a graceful train that sweeps the floor.”

A column shape is best suited for those with a slimmer or more boyish frame, particularly if the fabric is flowy without the typical boning and corsetry associated with bridal gowns – think Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy in that Narciso Rodriguez sheath. A modern take on this is Westwood’s Minerva gown, a silk-satin number with a draped neckline that sweeps across the shoulder, “creating the illusion of a fuller bosom”, Au notes.

A simple column gown is best for slim brides. Photo: Johnathan Lee Fine Art Photo
A simple column gown is best for slim brides. Photo: Johnathan Lee Fine Art Photo

But while there are plenty of gowns to choose from on the market, many brides might still relish the opportunity to work with a custom gown designer. Noel Chu, an industry veteran, says women come to her more to execute unusual requirements. “They might have an unusual body type or want to combine elements of several dresses, or they want something not easy to find, like a folk costume or a jumpsuit,” she says. What makes the process more enjoyable for the bride is that she will dictate elements she desires. For example, a low back can emphasis curves, or a sheer bodice can be made a little more conservative for church by adding a detachable fabric panel.