Can hard stones really heal and ward off evil? Gems and minerals like malachite, turquoise and jade are back in fashion – in pieces from Dior, Van Cleef & Arpels and Piaget
From ancient Egyptians to New Age hippies, hard stones have long been thought to possess magical properties, and are now undergoing a revival in the watch and jewellery world as their symbolism and unique qualities appeal to a new era of fans
In ancient Egypt, malachite was used to ward off evil. The Aztecs regarded turquoise as the “stone of the gods”, and a 15th-century legend has it that turquoise would lose its colour when its owner was in danger or unwell, and regain its brilliance when the peril or illness had passed.
In antiquity, carnelian was thought to have a calming effect on blood and anger. In Chinese medicine, lapis lazuli was sometimes placed on injured parts of the body, or used in powdered form for ailments.
And the New Age hippies of the 1960s and 70s dabbled in crystals and stones.
Today, hard stones have been experiencing a revival in the watch and jewellery world and their symbolism means they can be chosen for their beauty or for their properties.
Pomellato’s gorgeously coloured new Armonie Minerali rings in pink, grey and green crystal and hard stone hues feel like talismans, as do the open gold bangles tipped with turquoise, malachite, carnelian, onyx or lapis lazuli in Piaget’s Possession collection, which can be stacked up the wrist. And then there is jade – said to possess healing properties – which is found in the collections of Hong Kong jewellers such as Wendy Yue and Dickson Yewn.
Christian Dior believed in the properties of stones, and this has been referenced by the house’s creative director Victoire de Castellane, who is known for her fondness of colour. Updating the Rose des Vents collection are new pieces set with malachite and lapis lazuli. A choker that combines these with the rarely used tiger’s eye stands out.
In high jewellery, the new Dior et Moi collection features eye-catching juxtapositions of hard stones and gemstones. Malachite is paired with emerald, lapis lazuli with sapphire, turquoise and aquamarine.
Cartier also explored mineral combinations of hard stone and gemstone in the 2019 Magnitude high jewellery collection with yellow and white diamonds enhancing the intensity of the blue lapis lazuli beads with their characteristic golden specks of pyrite for earrings, a ring and a necklace, with dynamic results.