Review / Hong Kong’s best new bars reviewed: from Argo at the Four Seasons Hotel, to Kyle & Bain and Zzura – are these the classiest cocktails in town?

Oct 9 , 2021

The new bar Argo at the Four Seasons Hong Kong, one of three hot new openings reviewed in September. Photo: Argo

Four Seasons beverage ambassador Lorenzo Antinori and local mixologist Summer Lo have made the hotel’s Caprice one of Asia’s Best Bars – how does Argo hold up?

K&B’s John Nugent revitalised the menu at Lily & Bloom and opened The Diplomat, which made Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2021 – but so did Gagan Gurung’s Tell Camellia, and now he’s back with Zzura

Despite all the late nights, loud music and alcohol, Hong Kong’s bar scene doesn’t make nearly as much noise as its dining counterpart. New restaurants arrive pre-baked with hype and the wait for a table feels like the wait for the Second Coming. Bars open more quietly – afraid to wake the neighbours – and it can take an excellent establishment years to garner serious attention.

Argo

An exception to this rule is Argo, which is enjoying immediate success. Demand for seats has been so strong that the bar has been forced to allow bookings (albeit outside peak hours) where none were previously permitted.

Many factors have contributed to this strong start. Argo’s location in the Four Seasons provides an immediate seal of approval, sitting as it does alongside other renowned establishments like Caprice, Lung King Heen and Sushi Saito. The location’s redesign of the former Blue Bar space is also stunning. Nearly everything has changed. The position of bar and seats has swapped, pulling your attention towards the harbour view; the eponymous blue tones have given way to warmer pastel shades; and the visual concept has been updated from that of an anywhere hotel bar to a conservatory accented with plants and taxidermied butterflies.

Adding substance to these surface details is the bar team, headed by Lorenzo Antinori, beverage manager of Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong and beverage ambassador of Four Seasons Asia-Pacific, and local award-winning mixologist Summer Lo. The pair have positioned Caprice as one of the best bars in Asia and their involvement here brings high expectations.

Our first drink to arrive is one of Argo’s signatures, its cocoa-aged Single Origin Negroni (HK$140), which features St George Terroir gin, Cascara vermouth, Hulu Gali cocoa, Campari and smoked jalapeño. Standing head and shoulders above your bog standard negroni, the cocktail delivers on its promise with a subtle cocoa flavour on first sip. It’s incredibly well balanced with a sweet middle ending on a nicely bitter finish, but lacks the punch typical of this type of cocktail, which turns out to be a recurring theme.

Argo’s Single Origin Negroni (Cacao). Photo: Handout

The Skynet Old Fashioned’s futuristic name comes from the fact that the base spirit, Glyph Molecular whisky, is not barrel-aged but “born from molecular mapping” that supposed recreates the same vanillin-driven warmth derived from wood sugars. Made also with miso caramel, coconut husk and olive oil, the most noteworthy feature of this reformed classic is its distinct creaminess and the candy aroma on the nose. It’s a pleasant mix but another surprisingly light tipple.

We’re informed the Red Rock Sazerac is already sold out (by 7.30pm) so we move off menu and order a classic Last Word. The cherry comes served on the side, which we appreciate as it allows us to dictate the exact profile of the drink, which arrives precisely as sour and refreshing as we’d like.

There’s much to admire about the drinks at Argo with their inventive ingredients and winning flavours. If they all taste somewhat light, that hasn’t hurt their popularity. If anything, the ease with which you can drink your cocktail at Argo likely appeals to many customers. With its solid cocktails and gorgeous design don’t expect the waiting list to get shorter any time soon.