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Eat like a local in Kota Kinabalu – 5 great dishes to try on the coast of Borneo

Strong-smelling tuhau, made from shredded wild ginger mixed with chilli, garlic and lime juice, which can be eaten on its own or used in stir fries or fish dishes, is a traditional food from Kota Kinabalu, on the Malaysian island of Borneo. Photo: Instagram@rasaborneo
Strong-smelling tuhau, made from shredded wild ginger mixed with chilli, garlic and lime juice, which can be eaten on its own or used in stir fries or fish dishes, is a traditional food from Kota Kinabalu, on the Malaysian island of Borneo. Photo: Instagram@rasaborneo
Hidden Gems

A richer, medicinal-tasting version of the pork rib dish, bak kut teh, tuhau – a smelly, spicy shredded ginger condiment – and lemon coconut jelly are among the local delights

Kota Kinabalu – the capital of the state of Sabah on the island of Borneo, in Southeast Asia’s Malay Archipelago – was founded by the British North Borneo Company, which developed it into a trading port and brought in many Chinese labourers to work the land.

The coastal city’s cuisine, although similar to other Malaysian places, such as Penang, which share similar histories and cultures, has also been influenced by its rich association with the sea and its indigenous population.

Check out five foods you will not want to miss when travelling to Kota Kinabalu.

Bak kut teh

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This pork rib dish cooked in broth, bak kut teh, of Sabah is not the same as its counterpart from Penang. Although both use plenty of herbs, this version’s heavy-handed use of the dried root, Chinese angelica – giving it a richer, more medicinal taste – is the most marked difference.

Aside from spare ribs, the bak kut teh in Sabah also adds beef balls and occasionally other animal organs, too.

In contrast with Penang, where bak kut teh is a common meal eaten for breakfast, the dish served in Sabah is eaten only at dinner time.

The locals considered the herbal-tasting meal to be too rich for the morning, so the city’s bak kut teh restaurants all open around mid afternoon.

Lemon coconut jelly

 

A refreshing treat which is ideal after a day out in the sun, lemon coconut jelly is a dessert broth rather than a jelly pudding.

The name refers to one of the main ingredients, lemon coconut jelly, which is accompanied by lychee, ice, and lemon slices.