Bell bottoms are back: Margot Robbie and Gigi Hadid rock 70s styles while Chanel and Chloé are dropping flares made famous by David Bowie, and Sonny and Cher

Jul 23 , 2024

A model presents a creation by Chloé for the women ready-to-wear fall/winter 2024-25 collection as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, in February. Photo: AFP

Kelsey Lyle at Moda Operandi says Chemena Kamali’s debut for Chloé was key to the 1960s and 1970s style’s revival, with her platform selling versions by Jeanerica and Closed

Alaïa and Citizens of Humanity offer a variation with a ‘horseshoe’ profile while Levi’s, Frame, Mother and Riders by Lee are all also offering flared styles

In case you missed the chunky-wedge-sandal memo: boho is back. And riding high (waisted) alongside the trend is the return of bell-bottomed trousers and jeans.

Wide-legged flares became big in the late 1960s, going more mainstream in the 70s – synonymous with vibes of peace and love, and worn by such icons as Sonny and Cher, and the late David Bowie.

But they actually originated in the early 19th century as rather practical trousers for sailors in the US and later in Britain. One reason given for their invention is that the wide leg of the trousers made it easier for someone to grab should a man fall overboard. They were also easier to remove when wet, could be flipped up should the deck be awash with water, and with a certain amount of flair (pun intended), be used as a last-ditch flotation device. It was these trousers, surfacing in army and navy shops, that were repurposed as the uniform of rebels and hippies of the 70s. They also served as inspiration for Coco Chanel’s “yacht pants” and “beach pyjamas” of the 1920s.

Frame jeans, modelled by Gisele Bundchen. Photos: Handout

The feeling of freedom that bell-bottomed trousers evoke was captured at Chemena Kamali’s debut for Chloé, one of the buzziest shows of the most recent fashion season. Her line-up included light-wash denim flares, and leather trousers with billowing chiffon flares.

Kelsey Lyle, resort wear and denim buyer at luxury fashion e-commerce platform Moda Operandi, says the Chloé show has definitely influenced a return to bell-bottomed and flared jeans.

“I’d be remiss not to mention the dramatic light-wash flares from Chloé’s autumn/winter 2024 show,” she continues. “Since Chemena Kamali’s appointment as Chloé’s creative director, there’s been a resurgence of boho chatter, potentially reigniting the comeback of denim flares. The two-tone denim style was a hit at the brand’s [pre-order] trunk show, and we expect stellar performance when we launch it for immediate purchase come autumn.”

Glow-up flare denim pants at Moda Operandi

Top-selling flare styles on Moda Operandi include Jeanerica’s Fuji and St Monica jeans, as well as the Glow-Up jean style from Closed.

Lyle says flares and bell-bottoms are the logical evolution of the wide-legged denim trend, and work especially well in the cooler seasons.