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‘It’ girls in dad looks: Emily Ratajkowski, Sofia Richie and Hailey Bieber are rocking overalls, cargo pants and chore coats – and Loewe, Gucci and Fendi are making baggy workwear a luxury

Sofia Richie is just one of the ‘It’ girls now working a workaday look with overalls and chore coats to the fore, and brands like Fendi, Gucci, Prada and many others are all piling in on the trend. Photo: Bauer-Griffin/GC Images
Sofia Richie is just one of the ‘It’ girls now working a workaday look with overalls and chore coats to the fore, and brands like Fendi, Gucci, Prada and many others are all piling in on the trend. Photo: Bauer-Griffin/GC Images
Fashion

  • Ganni and Erdem collaborated with Alexa Chung’s go-to brand Barbour, Moncler worked with Hoka, Saint Laurent offers army-style jumpsuits, and Prada’s Linea Rossa technical line has been worn by A$AP Rocky
  • Heather Gramston at luxury retailer Browns recommends R13, Acne Studios and Agolde, while Mugler creative director Casey Cadwallader also designs for luxury ski brand Aztech Mountain

A passing glance at today’s “It” girls might give you the impression that many could very well be on their way to paint a house, tramp through the British countryside or at the very least, attend a suburban BBQ where dads in cargo shorts solemnly turn the sausages.

Overalls, khaki pants, chore coats and cargo trousers have become regular wardrobe staples for the likes of Emily Ratajkowski, Sofia Richie (who was recently snapped showing off her baby bump in a pair of dark green overalls) and Hailey Bieber.

Hailey Bieber seen in May 2023 in Los Angeles. Photo: Bauer-Griffin/GC Images
Hailey Bieber seen in May 2023 in Los Angeles. Photo: Bauer-Griffin/GC Images
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Indeed as noted by Harper’s Bazaar, the chore jacket, originally the sturdy twill uniform of labourers in 19th century France, has become something of a default uniform for fashion week attendees. Nobody wore it better than the late and legendary original street style photographer Bill Cunningham, whose bright blue version was his signature look. Now everyone from Loewe to French girl go-to Sézane and cult label Bode has a version.

Cargo trousers have shaken off their suburban dad and 90s girl band associations (well, sort of, but in a good way!) and popped up on recent runways everywhere. This includes neon and peach silky versions at Fendi, and khaki and army green jumpsuits at Saint Laurent spring 2024, inspired by the label’s signature safari jacket. The real appeal? Well, who doesn’t want more pockets?

Saint Laurent summer 2024
Saint Laurent summer 2024

When it comes to actually working in workwear-influenced clothes, Carhartt recently launched a workwear range for women earlier this year. Not that women weren’t already wearing it, the brand having long gone well beyond its workwear origins in 1899 into streetwear, music and skate cultures. The range includes Tencel sweatshirts and T-shirts and the brand plans to expand the offering into other categories such as denim.

The waxed Barbour jacket, mainstay of posh welly-wearing, hunting and horsey toffs in the countryside and muddy-gumboot festival goers alike, this year celebrates its 100th anniversary by being more coveted than ever. Cool girl brands such as Ganni and Erdem have collaborated with Barbour, injecting a sense of playfulness into the practical all-terrain jacket. And indeed, ultimate cool girl Alexa Chung has done several collaborations with the brand.

From left, Pixie Geldof and Alexa Chung at the London launch of the Barbour by Alexa Chung collection in September 2022 in London. Photo: WireImage for Alexa Chung
From left, Pixie Geldof and Alexa Chung at the London launch of the Barbour by Alexa Chung collection in September 2022 in London. Photo: WireImage for Alexa Chung
Meanwhile, according to the Business of Fashion’s annual “State of Fashion” report for 2024, the line between style and functionality will continue to blur with increased competition in this space. As the report noted, plenty of luxury brands are expanding into the outdoors by collaborating with performance-oriented brands, including Gucci with The North Face, Moncler with Hoka and Loewe with On. Further signs? Prada’s Linea Rossa technical line was recently worn by rapper A$AP Rocky and, fun fact, Mugler creative director Casey Cadwallader moonlights as a designer for luxury Aspen-based ski brand Aztech Mountain.