Why 2023’s hottest shoe is the humble Adidas Samba: Harry Styles took a custom collection on his world tour, Katie Holmes pairs hers with Prada, and Hailey Bieber and the Hadid sisters are fans

Dec 2 , 2023

The Adidas Samba’s design goes back to the 1950s, with various editions and iterations over the past 70 years. Photo: Adidas

They may have begun life on the football pitch in 1950, but Adidas’ modern Samba collabs with brands from Wales Bonner to Palace and KITH have turned the trainers into fashion statements

Pop culture status was attained in the 90s when they were worn by Oasis’ Gallagher brothers and Ewan McGregor’s character in the cult hit Trainspotting; now the likes of Hailey Bieber are fans too

The humble Adidas Samba is a relatively basic shoe when you compare it to other trainers on the market. Known for its minimalist look and relative affordability, the Samba’s rising fame in 2023 is thanks to the two Cs: celebrities and collaborations.

The popularity of 2023’s hottest shoe is a result of a slow burn over the past few years that has seen its popularity increase. With its mix of old-school vibes and clean lines, the Samba has shown that three stripes and a gum sole is all you really need to complete your sneaker collection.

Here’s what you need to know about the Samba and how celebs from Harry Styles to Bella Hadid and Katie Holmes are buying into the obsession.

The rich history of the Adidas Samba

The Adidas Samba goes back to the 1950s, when it was design for better grip on the football pitch. Photo: Handout

The origins of the Adidas Originals Samba go back to 1950 when a German football team wore the shoe which had originally been designed for icy and snowy pitches. Per Adidas, the original design had an outsole with three cut-out suction cups to provide players with traction and stability. The shoe’s ability to create stability on the football pitch earned it the nickname “Samba”.

Per Vogue, the shoe remained an athlete favourite during its early years, and became associated with the 1970s when the three stripes begun being worn by football fans everywhere. According to Adidas, the Samba version we know today was launched in 1972. Designers added a soft ankle and heel padding, with a low-leather vamp in the forefoot area.

In the past 73 years, there have been several iterations of the shoe, including the Samba Spezial, which was launched in 1982 and incorporated a shock-absorbent wedge and multi-stud outsole, making it even better for staying put on slippery winter surfaces.

In the 1990s, the Samba got the nod of approval from the Gallagher brothers during their Oasis heyday. Added credibility came after the lead character in the cult 1996 film Trainspotting wore burgundy Samba Supers. Mark Renton, played by Ewan McGregor, wore the shoes in the flick, elevating them to pop culture status in the process.

Collabs ensure longevity

The silver Wales Bonner x Adidas Sambas is a collaboration with the London-based designer. Photo: Wales Bonner.

The success of the Sambas can be attributed to the multiple collaborations and relaunches it has had over the years. For example in 2014, the Samba Super Battle Pack collection was launched to celebrate the World Cup in Brazil. The limited edition bore intricate designs and bold colourways to emphasise the spirit of the Samba community and was a hit.

Adidas has also paired the Samba with well-known designers, celebrities and fashion brands. Notably, the iconic collaboration between Adidas Originals and British fashion label Wales Bonner has been one of the most successful. Per Sneaker Freaker, the ongoing partnership between the London-based designer and the Samba featured unique crocheted detailing, leading to the shoe selling out in record time.