How double-breasted suits reclaimed the red carpet in 2023, from Harry Styles and David Beckham, to Andrew Garfield and Elvis movie rivals Jacob Elordi and Austin Butler, bigger is officially better
- Rami Malek, The White Lotus ’ Adam DiMarco and The Bear’s Jeremy Allen White also bossed double-breasted looks for the cameras – but which Elvis actor went bigger best, Jacob Elordi or Austin Butler?
- Meanwhile, Dior’s Kim Jones and Louis Vuitton’s Pharrell Williams brought a slouchier style to runways, while exaggerated forms with abstract fabrics reigned at Alexander McQueen
Backed by red carpet mainstays from Jacob Elordi and Austin Butler, to Andrew Garfield, Harry Styles and David Beckham, the double-breasted suit has made a spectacular return as this year’s biggest tailoring trend.
In its traditional form, the double-breasted suit is slightly longer than its single-breasted counterpart, the structured fabric emphasising the waist and broadening the shoulders. It is typically made of high-grade wool, linen or cashmere in patterns like pinstripe or Prince of Wales check, but today, brands are viewing the look through a contemporary lens, bringing soft neutrals, pastels and even tie-dye, as seen on the latest spring 2024 runways.
Kim Jones, artistic director of Dior Men, has long placed the art of tailoring at the heart of his vision for menswear – and his latest showcase was no exception. Drawing inspiration from the work of Yves Saint Laurent, Gianfranco Ferré and Marc Bohan – three designers who preceded him – Jones debuted a collection brimming with shape, colour and exquisite pattern cutting. Among the timeless staples on display: long, high-collared suits in flecked tweeds and satin-trimmed wools cut to elegant double-breasted silhouettes.
For his debut menswear collection for Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams proposed his own take on the double-breasted suit, spotlighting the fine workmanship of the French maison’s ateliers. Slouchy yet polished, double-breasted tailoring was crafted in dark, moody hues, styled with wide lapels and delicate, chain-link brooches set with precious gemstones.
Meanwhile, at Alexander McQueen, known for its dramatic takes on traditional tailoring, double-breasted suits were adorned with puffed or rounded shoulders, detailed collars, and abstract jacquards and embroidery crafted in partnership with Simon Ungless.