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Sole searching: behind the timeless appeal of Venetian slippers – from Kate Moss and Katie Holmes to Kanye West and Chris Pine, celebrities fell for the flat-soled Italian shoe of the gondola

Venetian slippers from Capulette. Photo: Handout

Inspiration struck Lily Atherton Hanbury during 2015’s Venice Biennale.

“It was the year one of my favourite artists, Sarah Lucas, was representing the British Pavilion and there was so much to see every day and to do at night, with no downtime or really even time to change,” Hanbury tells Style. It was during that trip that she and business partner Katya Shyfrin fell in love with the Venetian slipper (also known as the Friulane), which the duo found to be versatile, comfortable and chic.

Lily Atherton Hanbury and Katya Shyfrin, founders of Le Monde Beryl. Photo: Handout

The shoe’s humble yet cinematic backstory didn’t hurt. Historians say that during World War Two, Red Cross nurses in the northeastern region of Friuli gathered rubber, velvet and other fabric scraps, which the wounded in hospitals then used to make flat unisex shoes. Rubber soles helped the style gain popularity among Venetian gondoliers, who’d avoid both slipping and damaging their wooden boats with harder soles.

Hanbury and Shyfrin founded Le Monde Beryl, a high-end accessories label with the Venetian slipper at its core, in 2016. Little did they know that years later, said shoes would shine as one of fashion’s trendiest items, spotted on everyone from Kate Moss to Jennifer Lawrence to Kanye West.

Katie Holmes rocking Venetian slippers in Soho, New York City, in September 2020. Photo: GC Images

Katie Holmes is one of Le Monde Beryl’s more fervent celebrity fans; alongside the brand’s seasonal kitten heels, the actor has been spotted in their emerald green Venetian mules, which boast a sharp pointed toe, while out and about in New York City. Unsurprisingly, the patron saint of flat and feminine footwear, Alexa Chung, has also put her preppy spin on the slipper: alongside embroidered, patent leather and suede styles, she’s worn a navy velvet pair with a smocked floral sun dress, and has been photographed in Le Monde Beryl’s mary janes while holidaying.

Alexa Chung in Venetian slippers from Le Monde Beryl. Photo: @alexachung/Instagram

Though new, the Venetian slipper’s blend of style and comfort have cemented it as a modern wardrobe staple.

“Over the years we have always had an offer of the Venetian slipper,” says Cassie Smart, head of womenswear at Matches Fashion. “The silhouette is timeless and although less trend-driven this summer, we are seeing our clients style them in a more preppy way, with canvas tote bags and open shirts over swimsuits or with the boxer and shirt look.”

Venetian slippers from Vibi Venezia. Photo: Handout

Among the brands gaining ground on Matches is Vibi Venezia, which was founded by Italian socialites Viola and Vera Arrivabene and has been worn by the likes of Kate Moss, who paired cherry red Friulanes with a casual all-black outfit. The label’s contrast trims, playful prints and Maryjane silhouettes give the made-in-Italy shoes an upgrade, and Smart teases the arrival of embellished velvet styles ahead of the festive season. Another brand is Fortela, whose suede rendition has sold out on Matches across several sizes.

Venetian slippers from Capulette. Photo: Handout

There’s also Capulette, which was founded by Capucine Lebrun; she grew up between France and Italy and shared her mother’s love for the shoe. Capulette’s footwear is made in Friuli, and not only hand stitched but still fashioned from bike tires – all things that distinguish real Friulane from lookalikes, she notes.

Tellingly, Capulette’s customers are loyal: according to Lebrun, one regular is a French actress that wears two different colourways at once, while many shoppers have stocked up on multiple pairs, with velvet styles in every colour for both house slippers and outdoor shoes.

Chris Pine warming up for Jimmy Kimmel Live! earlier this year in March. Photo: Bauer-Griffin/GC Images

Lebrun thinks that the pandemic spurred the flat shoe frenzy; doing more housework, for one, necessitates comfortable shoes. “Covid changed some habits … behaviours changed,” she says. With this in mind, it’s no coincidence that we’re also seeing a ballet flat renaissance, with the likes of Miu Miu and Repetto dominating wish lists and becoming hallmarks TikTok trends like ballet-core and the hyper-feminine coquette aesthetic, which celebrates all things adorned with bows, lace and vintage.

Le Monde Beryl’s take on Venetian slippers. Photo: Handout

But being at home is just one of the two extremes we’re throwing ourselves into nowadays. Hanbury, who likes to style her slippers with vintage denim and men’s shirts, sees travel as a key part of the shoe’s identity and appeal. “We imagine each design as being part of a traveller’s perennial uniform … you can pack a few pairs in a carry-on and they can take you from the beach or a museum to dinner,” she says.

Certainly, demand for subtle (but nonetheless aspirational) luxury has helped boost the Friulane’s profile – sky high heels may look great, but few things feel lusher than a comfortable pair of flats. “We design each pair of shoes with that in mind,” Hanbury adds. “To enhance rather than inhibit life.”
Fashion
  • The flat-soled shoes were crafted by hospital patients in Italy during World War Two, working with velvet and rubber scouted by Red Cross nurses, before gondoliers embraced the ease of the flat sole
  • From ballet-core and twee TikTok trends to post-pandemic down-dressing, Venetian slippers are finding a new vogue, sparked by labels like Capulette, Vibi Venezia and Le Monde Beryl