Paris Haute Couture Week 2024: Schiaparelli and Dior’s autumn/winter shows celebrated gold, savoir faire and sports – with Kylie Jenner and Blackpink’s Jisoo sitting front row, respectively

Jun 25 , 2024

Blackpink’s Jisoo, Dior CEO Delphine Arnault and Jennifer Lopez at the Dior haute couture autumn/winter 2024-25 show in Paris. Photo: AP

The Olympic Games may be the talk of the town in Paris but, this week, fashion reigns supreme in the City of Light. Amid the many road closures and ensuing traffic disruptions in the lead up to the global sporting event, the world’s top fashion brands have descended upon the French capital.

The haute couture shows, which feature collections from storied French houses such as Chanel and Dior, are officially underway, showcasing the pinnacle of fashion: one-of-a-kind garments intended for a privileged few and for showstopping red-carpet appearances.

Here are two highlights from the first day of the autumn/winter haute couture 2024 shows.

Schiaparelli

Historic couture house Schiaparelli, helmed by American designer Daniel Roseberry, has been expanding its ready-to-wear and accessories business, most recently with a temporary store in Monaco. But the brand truly shines at couture.

For autumn/winter 2024, Roseberry was inspired by the personal wardrobe of house founder Elsa Schiaparelli – in particular, a painted gown paired with a feathered stole she wore in the early 40s.

An embroidered velvet cape from the Schiaparelli haute couture autumn/winter 2024-25 show in Paris

That reference translated into power-shoulder jackets, bustier dresses, dramatic capes and other striking looks. Some of the pieces revealed their inner construction – all the better to showcase the savoir faire behind couture clothes.

A look from the Schiaparelli haute couture autumn/winter 2024-25 show in Paris. It features a pair of vintage shoes inserted at the neckline

Among the best looks were the brand’s signature monochrome outfits with gold accents – which are certain to become collectibles for the maison’s loyal clients – as well as dresses with Surrealist-inspired touches such as shoe heels incorporated into the silhouettes.

Doja Cat and Daniel Roseberry at the Schiaparelli haute couture autumn/winter 2024-25 show in Paris

The label’s couture customers came out in full force clad in the aforementioned gold-embellished creations, proudly showing them off to photographers and onlookers.

Anitta, Selma Blair and Kylie Jenner at the Schiaparelli haute couture autumn/winter 2024-25 show in Paris

Also in attendance were some of the brand’s celebrity fans, including Doja Cat and Kylie Jenner – both wearing custom haute couture creations designed by Roseberry.

Dior

Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri has often celebrated the world of sports through her work for the Parisian label. Her first collection for the house, dating back to 2017, was a homage to fencing. In 2021, she unveiled the brand’s athletic-inspired cruise 2022 range in the Panathenaic Stadium in Athens, the home of the first Olympics.

The Olympic Games, and their origins in Ancient Greece, were also on her mind this season. Inspired by an Olympic-themed exhibition currently on view at the Louvre museum titled L’Olympisme – Une Invention Moderne, Un Heritage Antique, Chiuri paid tribute to one of her favourite pieces in women’s wardrobe: the peplum.

A Grecian-inspired look from for the Dior autumn/winter 2024-25 haute couture collection show in Paris

With its draped and folded fabrics, the Grecian garment gently clings to the body, highlighting the beauty of the female form and evoking the purity of Greek statuary.

Ethereal pleated gowns were worn with sequinned tank tops underneath and accessorised with black leather belts that made them look less precious and delicate. A series of metallic column dresses that closed the show is likely to be on many red carpets come awards season (front-row guests at the show included Jennifer Lopez and Jisoo from Blackpink). Each look was paired with gladiator sandals – another key accessory that Chiuri has been reinventing, and that’s since become a staple of Dior’s offerings.

Embroidered mosaics at the Dior autumn/winter 2024-25 haute couture collection show in Paris

Colourful embroidered mosaics depicting women in motion or playing sports lined the walls of the show venue, providing a nice counterpoint to the mainly monochrome line-up. The works, sewn by the Chanakya ateliers in India – an embroidery house that often collaborates with Dior – were re-creations of paintings by African-American artist Faith Ringgold.

Fashion

It may be the Olympic Games next month, but fashion still rules Paris this week: Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri opted for Grecian looks, while Daniel Roseberry drew inspiration from Elsa Schiaparelli
Celebrity fans including Doja Cat and Kylie Jenner attended Schiaparelli’s show, while Jennifer Lopez and Blackpink’s Jisoo were spotted at Dior’s