Style Edit: Max Mara’s sharp tailoring shines through its AW24 collection – the Italian label is inspired by Belle Époque muse Colette and creates RTW pieces for the modern, fashionable working woman
- Creative director Ian Griffiths is inspired by the cross-dressing Belle Époque muse Colette, whom he described as ‘sophisticated, intelligent and sexually liberated’ – a Max Mara woman
- Its AW24 collection focuses on sharp tailoring and details, like a camel skirt tied at the side like a sarong; its bestseller Teddy Bear coat made an appearance in grey alongside knit dresses too
Max Mara never fails to deliver what it’s best at: beautifully made daywear separates and long-lasting outerwear that stands the test of time.
High quality textiles and great fit are at the heart of the label’s ready-to-wear, which defies short-lived trends and caters to women who are not flaky fashion victims.
For autumn/winter 2024, the brand’s creative director Ian Griffiths looked at the oeuvre of Belle Époque French writer, journalist, screenwriter and sometime performer Colette, the author of Gigi. In the show notes, he described her as “sophisticated, intelligent and sexually liberated”, all qualities that he also sees in the Max Mara woman.
The reference to Colette, however, was more an attitude rather than an obvious homage, as the collection was consistent with the “modern, spare” approach to design that Max Mara has always been known for. There’s a reason why women who want to look put together and still display a certain sense of individuality rely on the Italian label for their wardrobes.
Indeed, the beauty of Max Mara is often subtle and the stand-out looks from this season come down to the finest details. The careful, considered fold of a suit or skirt; the sharply cut shoulder of a silhouette. The sharp tailoring makes for sleek yet powerful silhouettes which are perfect for working women who want to make a fashion statement.
A grey version of the brand’s Teddy Bear coat, one of the label’s bestsellers and a staple in many women’s wardrobes, made an appearance at the show, which also featured some outstanding knitwear – a cable-knit dress, also in grey, was a winner – and mannish tailoring, inspired by Colette’s habit to wear men’s clothes.
Small gestures such as the placement of pockets on the back of a dress or the way a camel skirt was tied at the side almost like a sarong were there to give the clothes just the right amount of detail without taking away from the no-nonsense chic aesthetic of the always reliable brand.