The most stand-out shows at Milan Fashion Week 2024: from Gucci’s party-ready looks and Prada’s sure to be celebrity-loved dresses, to Fendi’s workwear-inspired yet chic pieces

Feb 26 , 2024

Models walk the runway during the Prada autumn/winter 2024 show at Milan Fashion Week. Photo: AFP

Milan Fashion Week autumn/winter 2024 saw the debuts of new designers at Tod’s, Blumarine, and Moschino, while Kanye West attended Marni’s 30th anniversary show and Versace wowed with punky looks

Salma Hayek was at Bottega Veneta’s showing, which featured plenty of colour and texture; meanwhile, Ferragamo tapped into cool Gen Z style and Max Mara channelled Belle Époque French icon Colette

So many shows, so little time. That’s how Milan Fashion Week felt, especially if you were at the behest of public transport and often inclement weather.

This season marked the debuts of new designers at Tod’s, Moschino and Blumarine (we saw the first one but not the other two), and highlights included a beautiful show by Francesco Risso for the 30th anniversary of Marni, attended by persona non grata Kanye West. Versace, meanwhile, delivered a punk-inspired collection that had the usual va-va-voom you’d expect from the brand.

A punk-inspired look at Versace autumn/winter 2024. Photo: AP

Here, in chronological order, are six shows to remember from a hectic week of back-to-back events.

Fendi

Designer Kim Jones’ flair for art collaborations and luxe streetwear has been a constant in his career – first at Louis Vuitton menswear and then at Dior Men, where he is currently working as creative director. Everyone expected that this would also inform his womenswear for Fendi, but Jones has instead taken a more low-key approach at the Italian house. While he has come up with some headline-making tie-ups, including Versace, Skims and Marc Jacobs, his Fendi collections have tended to be more on the pragmatic side and are often inspired by the women in the Fendi family.

“Utilitarian” and “extravagant” were the two adjectives Jones used to describe the autumn/winter 2024 range. He looked at Fendi’s archives from 1984 and found a parallel with what was happening in London at the time: the Blitz Kids, the New Romantics and workwear.

A dress with a print of Roman statuary at Fendi autumn/winter 2024. Photo: AFP

The workwear-inspired pieces, which also paid homage to the practical and chic wardrobe of Silvia Venturini Fendi, artistic director of accessories, menswear and children, included some great outerwear, like a jacket that looked like corduroy but was actually shaved mink. The stand-out looks though were the dresses, knitwear and skirts printed with Roman statuary – a clear homage to Fendi’s Roman roots.

A top with a print of Roman statuary at Fendi autumn/winter 2024. Photo: AFP

Jones has shown in the past that he can deliver some breathtaking fashion; his Fendi couture collections have included some spectacular looks. He just needs to have more fun with ready-to-wear just like his counterpart Silvia does with menswear and accessories. There’s a reason one of the Fs in the double Fendi logo stands for “fun”.