Q&a / Gucci’s Sabato De Sarno on the inspiration for his first show for the brand: the new creative director dived into archives for his Ancora collection, showing in Milan’s Brera district

Sep 22 , 2023

Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno. Photos: Handout

An industry veteran who’s worked at fashion houses from Prada to Dolce & Gabbana, Sabato De Sarno was nevertheless little known until he scored the top job at Gucci – today, he stages his first show

Inspired by ‘the greatness of the Gucci world’ and the brand’s archives in Florence, everything from the Gucci Horsebit and Jackie bags to the iconic Jordaan loafer feature in his new collection

The most anticipated show this spring/summer 2024 season is without a doubt Gucci in Milan. The Italian powerhouse has recently gone through a major shake-up. After parting ways with designer Alessandro Michele in 2022 and CEO Marco Bizzarri earlier this year, Gucci was in reset mode. Everyone was waiting to see what the brand would do next. Then, in January, the Kering-owned label appointed Sabato De Sarno, a relative unknown outside industry circles, as its creative director.

A veteran of labels such as Valentino, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana, Naples-born De Sarno unveils his first collection for Gucci today. In an interview with Style, he gives a preview of what to expect from the show and his vision of Gucci.

Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno’s new jewellery campaign features model Daria Werbowy

What is your first memory of Gucci?

A red blazer with a black collar from the early 2000s. Actually, I bought it and it was my first fashion piece. I still have it and love it.

Is there something you discovered about the brand that surprised you?

I spent my first days at Gucci in the archives in Florence, discovering the greatness of the Gucci world. There are many pieces that have entered the common imagination, but there is also a lesser known, less repurposed archive that provided me with so much information about the brand before I even sat down at my desk.

There’s a lot of lifestyle in Gucci’s past, for example – something I’m very interested in and look forward to exploring. And then some pieces inspired my early ones, like the Marina chain jewellery from the 1970s, the silhouette of which served as the starting point for those worn by Daria in my first ad campaign.

The new Gucci jewellery campaign stars model Daria Werbowy, one of De Sarno’s first collaborators

How did you come up with the idea of bringing back model Daria Werbowy for the first campaign?