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Associated Press

Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri again celebrated feminism and sisterhood in her collection for Christian Dior, delving into the independent youth subculture styles of 1950s Britain.
Wearing a marl Dior dress, actress Jennifer Lawrence swept down the stone steps inside the Rodin Museum, the venue for Dior’s show on Tuesday, to form her own sisterhood with English actress Gemma Arterton and model Karlie Kloss.

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Lawrence remained an island of calm in the heaving mass of cameras that eventually caused security to divert guests. She showed her engagement ring from New York art gallerist Cooke Maroney as photographers vied for shots in the sweltering room.

Here are some highlights of the first full day of fall/winter 2019 collections at Paris Fashion Week:
Dior’s gang
A gargantuan art installation covered the runway walls, spelling out words like “feminists” as Dior’s first female designer, Chiuri, took the theme to the sassy styles of British “Teddy Girls”, a rebellious breed of British teens during the 1950s.


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It was new territory.


London’s V&A Museum hosts lavish ‘Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams’ exhibition
Monochrome gingham, red check, full skirts, big black leather belts, pointy shoes and cut-off bobby socks all evoked the girls who formed part of a largely forgotten subculture that took its name from the Edwardian-style “Teddy” jacket donned by adherents.



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The Teddy Girls rebelled against austerity after the second world war and replaced it with messy exuberance in their clothes. It’s laudable that Chiuri sought inspiration in “the queens of a ravaged landscape” who were “impertinent characters”, according to the description in the programme notes.


For fall/winter, slightly awkward bell hat-hybrids led the eye down to Edwardian coats, their exaggerated lapels touched on a trend seen in Milan. Pleated or buttoned-down, full skirts evoked the end of wartime rationing.
Paris Fashion Week: Dior helps well-tailored suits make a comeback

The collection was far from glamorous. Intentionally so.
Saint Laurent’s Opium

Saint Laurent makes a splash at Paris Fashion Week
The sultry vibe of late couturier Yves Saint Laurent, harking from the launch of his perfume “Opium” in 1977 and after, was in the air at Tuesday’s evening show by Anthony Vaccarello.


Paris Fashion Week: Saint Laurent’s show progresses from dark to colourful

Dark and hazy lighting lit up male and female models in retro ensembles, styled with large shades, trilby hats or disco skull caps.
The show opened with oversized 1980s power-shoulders on some statement tailored coats that set the autumn-winter display’s graphic tone.

But Vaccarello’s signature style is bare skin. Nipples and chest were exposed in a black silk gown with scooped bust, or on a YSL archive peaked-shoulder tuxedo jacket in white with cummerbund. Micro shorts and miniskirts were in abundance.

Saint Laurent sets the bar high against a sparkling Eiffel Tower

Reverentially, Vaccarello delved into the house archives and returned with the Asian musing that inspired Saint Laurent’s successful, and controversial, perfume from the late 1970s. This era was apparent in some accomplished archive pieces, such as a shimmering jacket, that recreated the red and gold embroideries associated with this heyday.

A star-studded front row featuring Kate Moss, Matt Dillon, Lindsay Lohan, Felicity Jones and Catherine Deneuve, applauded enthusiastically.
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Paris Fashion Week

Paris Fashion Week: Jennifer Lawrence’s engagement ring dazzles at Christian Dior show

Actress Jennifer Lawrence arrives for Dior’s fall/winter collection show at Paris Fashion Show on Tuesday. Photo: AP

(190226) -- PARIS, Feb. 26, 2019 (Xinhua) -- A model presents a creation for Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2019/2020 ready-to-wear collection show during Paris fashion week in Paris, France, on Feb. 26, 2019. (Xinhua/Piero Biasion)

epa07399780 A model presents a creation of the Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) Fall/Winter 2019/20 Women's collection during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 26 February 2019. The presentation of the Women collections runs from 25 February to 05 March. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

epa07399796 A model presents a creation of the Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) Fall/Winter 2019/20 Women's collection during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 26 February 2019. The presentation of the Women collections runs from 25 February to 05 March. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

epa07399172 A model presents a creation from the Fall/Winter 2019/20 Women's collection by Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior fashion house during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 26 February 2019. The presentation of the Women collections runs from 25 February to 05 March. EPA-EFE/IAN LANGSDON

epa07399171 A model presents a creation from the Fall/Winter 2019/20 Women's collection by Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior fashion house during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 26 February 2019. The presentation of the Women collections runs from 25 February to 05 March. EPA-EFE/IAN LANGSDON

Actress Jennifer Lawrence poses for photographers upon arrival at the Dior ready to wear Fall-Winter 2019-2020 collection, that was presented in Paris, Tuesday, Feb. 26, 2019. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

epa07399806 A model presents a creation of the Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) Fall/Winter 2019/20 Women's collection during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 26 February 2019. The presentation of the Women collections runs from 25 February to 05 March. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

epa07399164 A model presents a creation from the Fall/Winter 2019/20 Women's collection by Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior fashion house during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 26 February 2019. The presentation of the Women collections runs from 25 February to 05 March. EPA-EFE/IAN LANGSDON

US model Karlie Kloss poses during a photocall prior to the Fall-Winter 2019/2020 Ready-to-Wear collection fashion show by Christian Dior in Paris, on February 26, 2019. (Photo by Thomas SAMSON / AFP)

epa07399112 A model presents a creation from the Fall/Winter 2019/20 Women's collection by Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior fashion house during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 26 February 2019. The presentation of the Women collections runs from 25 February to 05 March. EPA-EFE/IAN LANGSDON

Suzy Bae

epa07399162 A model presents a creation from the Fall/Winter 2019/20 Women's collection by Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior fashion house during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 26 February 2019. The presentation of the Women collections runs from 25 February to 05 March. EPA-EFE/IAN LANGSDON

epa07399190 Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri appears on the catwalk after the presention of her Fall/Winter 2019/20 Women's collection for Dior fashion house during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 26 February 2019. The presentation of the Women's collections runs from 25 February to 05 March. EPA-EFE/IAN LANGSDON

Actress Gemma Arterton poses for photographers upon arrival at the Dior ready to wear Fall-Winter 2019-2020 collection, that was presented in Paris, Tuesday, Feb. 26, 2019. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 26: Angelababy attends the Christian Dior show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 26, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)

epa07399815 US model Kaia Gerber presents a creation from the Fall/Winter 2019/20 Women collection by Yves Saint Laurent during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 26 February 2019. The presentation of the Women collections runs from 25 February to 05 March. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 26: Eva Herzigova attends the Christian Dior show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020 on February 26, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)

epa07399113 A model presents a creation from the Fall/Winter 2019/20 Women's collection by Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior fashion house during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 26 February 2019. The presentation of the Women collections runs from 25 February to 05 March. EPA-EFE/IAN LANGSDON

epa07399775 A model presents a creation of the Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) Fall/Winter 2019/20 Women's collection during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 26 February 2019. The presentation of the Women collections runs from 25 February to 05 March. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

epa07399813 A model presents a creation of the Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) Fall/Winter 2019/20 Women's collection during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 26 February 2019. The presentation of the Women collections runs from 25 February to 05 March. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

epa07399181 Models present creations from the Fall/Winter 2019/20 Women's collection by Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior fashion house during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 26 February 2019. The presentation of the Women's collections runs from 25 February to 05 March. EPA-EFE/IAN LANGSDON

epa07399811 A model presents a creation of the Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) Fall/Winter 2019/20 Women's collection during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 26 February 2019. The presentation of the Women collections runs from 25 February to 05 March. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

epa07399792 A model presents a creation of the Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) Fall/Winter 2019/20 Women's collection during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 26 February 2019. The presentation of the Women collections runs from 25 February to 05 March. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

Milan Fashion Week: Gigi Hadid closes Fendi, ‘fashion’s longest love story’

Model Gigi Hadid presents a creation during Fendi’s show at Milan Fashion Week in Milan on Thursday. Photo: AFP

Model Bella Hadid presents a creation during the Fendi women's Fall/Winter 2019/2020 collection fashion show, on February 21, 2019 in Milan. (Photo by Miguel MEDINA / AFP)

A model presents a creation during the Fendi women's Fall/Winter 2019/2020 collection fashion show, on February 21, 2019 in Milan. (Photo by Miguel MEDINA / AFP)

A model presents a creation by Fendi during the Milan Fashion Week in Milan, Italy February 21, 2019. REUTERS/Alessandro Garofalo

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi women's Fall-Winter 2019-2020 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb.21, 2019. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Model Kaia Gerber presents a creation during the Fendi women's Fall/Winter 2019/2020 collection fashion show, on February 21, 2019 in Milan. (Photo by Miguel MEDINA / AFP)

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Maria Grazia Chiuri taps rebellious Teddy Girls from 1950s Britain, while Anthony Vaccarello returns with Opium perfume from trip to late 1970s YSL


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