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What are the messages behind Queen Elizabeth’s brooch choices? Royals and public figures don the high jewellery pieces to make a statement – and not just sartorially

Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip. Photo: @theroyalfamily/Instagram
Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip. Photo: @theroyalfamily/Instagram

  • Queen Elizabeth wore a diamond-encrusted Cartier brooch after Prince Philip’s funeral – which was part of a tiara gifted on her wedding day
  • Cartier’s panther and Chanel’s lion are particularly iconic, while Carnet’s red pomegranate brooch is popular as an auspicious symbol of prosperity

In the last official portrait taken of Queen Elizabeth and Philip, the Duke of Edinburgh, for his 99th birthday last year, the queen wore the famous heart-shaped Cullinan V diamond brooch – one of her favourites – as a symbol of her enduring love for her husband.

A few days after his funeral, she wore a diamond-encrusted Cartier brooch, believed to be the Nizam of Hyderabad’s floral royal brooch, which was part of a tiara gifted to the queen on wedding day in 1947.

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Michelle Ong’s ruby pomegranate brooch. Photo: Michelle Ong
Michelle Ong’s ruby pomegranate brooch. Photo: Michelle Ong
The queen’s jewellery collection is one of the most impressive in the world, full of priceless oversized diamonds, rubies and emeralds, but it is her vast repertoire of stunning brooches that excites royal watchers. There is nobody better than the queen when it comes to using a brooch to send a message. The silver fern brooch given by the wife of Auckland’s mayor in the 1950s is worn by all senior royals visiting New Zealand as a mark of respect. Similarly, a diamond maple leaf brooch pays tribute to Canada.
Anna Hu’s Leaping Koi brooch with rubellite-carved chalcedony. Photo: Anna Hu
Anna Hu’s Leaping Koi brooch with rubellite-carved chalcedony. Photo: Anna Hu

Power brokers of modern times have done the same, from the former US Secretary of State Madeleine Albright to the former president of the UK Supreme Court, Brenda Marjorie Hale, who famously wore a large spider brooch in 2019 when the Supreme Court ruled that Prime Minister Boris Johnson’s decision to prorogue parliament had been “unlawful”. Many speculated the pin symbolised the tangled web of politics.

The mischievous Albright owned a “diplomatic arsenal” of brooches, described in her book Read My Pins: Stories from a Diplomat’s Jewel Box. Picked up on her travels, these pieces conveyed messages of warmth, welcome and warning. It was a way for her to inject some humour into her diplomatic role, such as the time she wore a gold snake brooch to meet Saddam Hussein – he had once called her an “unparalleled serpent”.

Panthère de Cartier brooch in diamonds, onyx and emerald. Photo: Cartier
Panthère de Cartier brooch in diamonds, onyx and emerald. Photo: Cartier

While a brooch offers a limitless platform for attracting attention and broadcasting a message, it also lets jewellery designers unleash their imagination and creativity.