7 skincare ‘nasties’ you should be avoiding: these ingredients may have negative health effects, so why are they still in our beauty and personal care products?

Jun 12 , 2024

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Over the past decade, consumers’ perspectives towards beauty products have shifted significantly to focus on skin-safe ingredients. Amid this evolving landscape, “nasties” has become a popular term to highlight ingredients that could do more harm than good; on the opposite end of the spectrum, the term “clean” is used for products that contain no harmful ingredients while bringing myriad benefits.

Initially, these “bad” ingredients were favoured by manufacturers for their effectiveness, affordability and versatility, and used in products from moisturisers to cleansers. However, they actually undermine the quality and safety of skincare products. Even worse, it’s often difficult for consumers to identify these ingredients, as they hide in plain sight on labels by masquerading under complex chemical names.

Here are some of the most common hidden skincare nasties, and how to identify them so that you can make informed decisions and choose safer, skin-friendly products.

1. Parabens

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Parabens are often used in beauty products to prevent bacterial growth and extend shelf life, but the health concerns associated with these ingredients make them controversial. These compounds, which might appear on product labels as methylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben, may mimic oestrogen – a naturally occurring hormone – and have been linked to potential risks like breast cancer and reproductive issues, as well as skin irritation, especially in those with sensitive skin.

However, regulatory authorities like the FDA and SCCS consider them safe at the low concentrations typically found in cosmetics. Still, the industry has responded to consumers’ concerns with a wide variety of paraben-free products.

2. Phthalates

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Commonly used as solvents and fixatives, phthalates enhance consistency and fragrance longevity, but have raised safety concerns as endocrine disrupters, which could potentially have an adverse impact on hormonal and reproductive health. Their ability to be absorbed by the skin has led to careful examination, as they’ve been connected to skin irritations and allergic reactions.

Despite the risk these chemicals pose to consumers’ health, regulatory bodies around the world have offered varying responses. The European Union has banned or restricted certain phthalates, while the US-based FDA continues to evaluate their safety. Despite the lack of definitive evidence of their harmful effects at low levels, the risks associated with their endocrine-disrupting properties have led to an industry shift towards phthalate-free products over the past decade.

3. Synthetic fragrances

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Synthetic fragrances are made from various chemical compounds, including petroleum. These fragrances, which aim to replicate natural scents or create new ones, are valued for their consistency, strength, longevity and cost-effectiveness. However, while they enhance a product’s sensory appeal, there are concerns over the lack of transparency in their composition, as the term “fragrance” can mask a range of undisclosed chemicals.

Health-wise, synthetic fragrances rank as significant allergens with the potential to cause allergic reactions and skin irritations, particularly in individuals with sensitive skin or conditions like eczema. It has also been suggested that they can cause respiratory and systemic issues within the body, including asthma attacks and neural disturbances, such as migraines or depression. Some synthetic fragrance chemicals are also suspected hormone disrupters and carcinogens, though they are typically used in low quantities.

4. Sulphates

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Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) are two detergents commonly found in personal care products such as shampoos and cleaners. They are known for creating lather and effectively removing oil and dirt.

But, despite their effectiveness and affordability, sulphates are controversial due to their skin-irritating potential, as they have the power to remove natural oils, causing dryness, irritation and sometimes allergic reactions, especially if you struggle with sensitivity or eczema. Regulatory bodies such as the FDA deem them safe in typical cosmetic concentrations, yet concerns about their harshness have led many consumers to choose sulphate-free alternatives.

5. Polyethylene glycol

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Common in beauty products as emollients and emulsifiers, polyethylene glycol (PEGs) enhance the texture of creams, lotions and shampoos. However, they’ve raised safety concerns due to possible contamination with ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane, both harmful substances; ethylene oxide is a known carcinogen, and 1,4-dioxane is a potential one. These are risks that stem from the manufacturing process.

PEGs also increase skin permeability, possibly allowing harmful ingredients to penetrate deeper into the skin. Although regulatory bodies monitor the use of PEGs in cosmetics to try and maintain safe contamination levels, concerns about their contamination and effect on skin absorption remain significant.

6. Mineral oils

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Capable of delivering intense hydration and useful for their cleansing properties, mineral oils are often found in lotions, creams and ointments. However, their use is controversial due to purity concerns and the potential for skin occlusion.

Unrefined mineral oils might feature polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), possible carcinogens, and can clog pores, causing acne and irritation, particularly for oily or acne-prone skin types. While the FDA approves highly refined mineral oils in cosmetics as safe, the ongoing debate around them and studies that have found adverse effects have led to some brands trying to avoid using them in their formulations.

7. Alcohol

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Alcohols such as ethanol and isopropyl are commonly used in skincare products like toners and acne treatments for their quick-drying, astringent and antimicrobial qualities. While they efficiently remove oil and tighten pores, their safety is highly debated.

Alcohol can remove the skin’s natural oils, causing dryness, irritation and barrier disruption, particularly in dry or sensitive skin; this can aggravate acne and other skin issues. However, not all alcohols are harmful – fatty alcohols like cetyl alcohol can function as emollients and are actually beneficial for your skin. When it comes to alcohol in skincare, the bottom line is the safety of this “nasty” ingredient depends on the type, concentration and your skin’s condition.

Beauty

Over the past decade, consumers have become savvier with their beauty choices, focusing on ‘clean’ products with skin-safe ingredients
Ingredients like parabens, sulphates, alcohols and phthalates all get a bad reputation, but they’re still often found in creams, toners, lotions and shampoos …