7 skincare ‘nasties’ you should be avoiding: these ingredients may have negative health effects, so why are they still in our beauty and personal care products?

Jun 12 , 2024

Ren specialises in clean skincare. Photos: Handout

Over the past decade, consumers have become savvier with their beauty choices, focusing on ‘clean’ products with skin-safe ingredients

Ingredients like parabens, sulphates, alcohols and phthalates all get a bad reputation, but they’re still often found in creams, toners, lotions and shampoos …

Over the past decade, consumers’ perspectives towards beauty products have shifted significantly to focus on skin-safe ingredients. Amid this evolving landscape, “nasties” has become a popular term to highlight ingredients that could do more harm than good; on the opposite end of the spectrum, the term “clean” is used for products that contain no harmful ingredients while bringing myriad benefits.

Initially, these “bad” ingredients were favoured by manufacturers for their effectiveness, affordability and versatility, and used in products from moisturisers to cleansers. However, they actually undermine the quality and safety of skincare products. Even worse, it’s often difficult for consumers to identify these ingredients, as they hide in plain sight on labels by masquerading under complex chemical names.

Here are some of the most common hidden skincare nasties, and how to identify them so that you can make informed decisions and choose safer, skin-friendly products.

1. Parabens

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Parabens are often used in beauty products to prevent bacterial growth and extend shelf life, but the health concerns associated with these ingredients make them controversial. These compounds, which might appear on product labels as methylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben, may mimic oestrogen – a naturally occurring hormone – and have been linked to potential risks like breast cancer and reproductive issues, as well as skin irritation, especially in those with sensitive skin.

However, regulatory authorities like the FDA and SCCS consider them safe at the low concentrations typically found in cosmetics. Still, the industry has responded to consumers’ concerns with a wide variety of paraben-free products.

2. Phthalates

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Commonly used as solvents and fixatives, phthalates enhance consistency and fragrance longevity, but have raised safety concerns as endocrine disrupters, which could potentially have an adverse impact on hormonal and reproductive health. Their ability to be absorbed by the skin has led to careful examination, as they’ve been connected to skin irritations and allergic reactions.

Despite the risk these chemicals pose to consumers’ health, regulatory bodies around the world have offered varying responses. The European Union has banned or restricted certain phthalates, while the US-based FDA continues to evaluate their safety. Despite the lack of definitive evidence of their harmful effects at low levels, the risks associated with their endocrine-disrupting properties have led to an industry shift towards phthalate-free products over the past decade.

3. Synthetic fragrances

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Synthetic fragrances are made from various chemical compounds, including petroleum. These fragrances, which aim to replicate natural scents or create new ones, are valued for their consistency, strength, longevity and cost-effectiveness. However, while they enhance a product’s sensory appeal, there are concerns over the lack of transparency in their composition, as the term “fragrance” can mask a range of undisclosed chemicals.