What are peptides in skincare and why is Hailey Bieber a fan? These mighty molecules boost collagen production and reduce inflammation – but there’s one active ingredient they’re incompatible with ...

Apr 2 , 2024

Peptides in skincare products work at the cellular level to boost collagen production, enhance moisture retention and reduce inflammation – and Hailey Bieber is a fan. Photos: Handouts

Short chains of amino acids – the building blocks of proteins – peptides work at the cellular level to regulate biological processes that ensure the skin’s vitality … and Hailey Bieber is such a fan her brand Rhode offers a Peptide Glazing Fluid

Peptides are compatible with various skincare products, working harmoniously with active ingredients like hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and retinol – but AHAs can compromise their efficacy

Hailed as the latest skincare hero, peptides are tiny yet powerful molecules, composed of short chains of amino acids. Their beneficial effects include stimulating collagen production, enhancing moisture retention and reducing inflammation.

What are peptides?

As the beauty market is flooded with an overwhelming array of peptide-infused products, the quest for effective formulas that deliver on their promises involves understanding the science behind peptides, their role in skincare and the intricacies of their formulation. With amino acids the fundamental building blocks of proteins, peptides work at the cellular level, playing a part in the complex biological processes that ensure the vitality of our skin.

Hailey Bieber has put her name behind Rhode’s Peptide Glazing Fluid, a gel serum that “visibly plumps and hydrates”

These minuscule compounds deeply influence the skin’s health and structural composition. “In biological terms, peptides act as messengers, transmitting crucial signals that regulate cellular activities, forming a chain with specific functions,” says Keiko Negishi, aesthetician and skin therapist at New York-based Fild Studio.

Peptides assume diverse roles, with carrier peptides delivering healing factors, signal peptides triggering biological responses, and neurotransmitter peptides regulating muscle contraction and relaxation. Thanks to their relatively small size, peptides can penetrate areas beyond the reach of larger proteins. “This allows them to succeed where other skincare ingredients may be lacking, by navigating the skin’s layers with more ease,” Negishi says.

Beauty Pie’s Youthbomb Biologic collagen peptide cream includes 18 active ingredients to make the skin plumper, dewier and brighter

What are their benefits?

A key power of peptides is their ability to boost collagen, the structural foundation of youthful and resilient skin. As we age, collagen production naturally lags, leading to the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Peptides act as messengers signalling skin cells to synthesise collagen, thereby promoting a smoother, firmer complexion.

Hydration, a cornerstone of healthy skin, is another crucial benefit that peptides bring. Negishi explains that some peptides can enhance moisture retention, “ensuring your skin stays supple and well-nourished while fighting against dryness”. Additionally, by fortifying the skin’s natural moisture barrier, peptides contribute to a radiant and dewy complexion.