The rise and fall of beauty KOLs: James Charles, Addison Rae and the changing face of influencer marketing
- Infamous YouTuber Jeffree Star saw his brand crash following controversy, while Selfless by Hyram was suddenly dropped by Sephora, a fate suffered by Rae’s Item Beauty too
- On the flipside, LiveTinted’s successful rise started with Deepica Mutyala’s viral YouTube channel while U Beauty’s Tina Craig stresses her brand’s scientific chops
Influencer marketing has emerged as a dominant force in the beauty industry, with brands eagerly partnering with social media personalities to reach new audiences and drive sales. However, while a number of influencers have experienced meteoric rises, some of them have subsequently faced steep declines too, leading to an ongoing debate about the sustainability of this business model.
In the 2010s, beauty influencers reigned supreme. With millions of followers hanging on their every word and make-up tutorial, they built empires that seemed impregnable. But in the past few years, a wave of scandal and controversy has washed over the beauty world, tarnishing the reputations of some of social media’s biggest stars – especially those with their own beauty brands.
According to product developer Paulina Martinez, this shift has been a double-edged sword for influencer-founded brands. “On one hand, the influencers’ massive followings provide a built-in customer base and marketing machine,” Martinez explains. “Their endorsements carry immense weight, and a product launch with a popular creator can set sales records. On the other hand, the same drama that drives views and engagement can also threaten a brand’s stability.
“I think the ones that have not succeeded are those who haven’t done much research, are white-labelled, and where influencers take advantage of their name when the brand needs to feel natural and authentic,” says Hannah Holland, CEO of HLD Talent. One striking example is the meteoric rise and fall of Jeffree Star Cosmetics. In 2018, the beauty YouTuber launched his line with a splash, capitalising on a massive following and reputation.
The brand quickly gained a cultlike following, with products selling out within minutes of release. However, in 2019, a bombshell video surfaced alleging that Star had engaged in inappropriate behaviour towards a minor. The fallout was swift and devastating. Retailers like Macy’s dropped the range, and Star announced a temporary hiatus from social media. Once the target of a supposed US$500 million takeover by L’Oréal, Jeffree Star Cosmetics was left reeling.
The drama surrounding Star’s downfall echoes the scandals plaguing other influencer-lead brands. James Charles, the first male ambassador for CoverGirl, faced backlash in 2019 when he allegedly tried to seduce a straight man for a YouTube prank. The incident sparked a massive online controversy, with Charles losing millions of subscribers and his partnership with CoverGirl. Further allegations concerning underage boys emerged in 2021.
The “shiny new object” syndrome, where consumers quickly tire of products and brands that fail to innovate consistently, is a major threat. “The once-powerful endorsement of influencers is losing some of its sway as consumers become more discerning and sceptical of sponsored content,” Martinez says.
Evidence ranges from the surprising removal of Selfless by Hyram and Item Beauty from Sephora’s shelves to the shocking 2023 bankruptcy filing of make-up giant Morphe.