Explainer / What is exosome therapy – and how does it work? The new beauty trend promises radiant skin, voluminous hair and reduced inflammation, but more research still needs to be done

Jul 5 , 2024

A woman undergoes a rejuvenation treatment at a spa. Photo: Getty Images

Exosomes are microscopic vesicles within our cells that are said to offer regenerative benefits and promote collagen production when used in cosmetic treatments – ideal for anti-ageing treatments

It’s still emerging for now, but exosome therapy could stimulate cellular regeneration in the skin and scalp to create a youthful complexion and thick, healthy hair

Exosomes are taking over beauty studios and clinics around the world, with the tiny, nano-sized particles gaining popularity for their remarkable regenerative and anti-inflammatory properties.

Used in cutting-edge treatments, exosomes are believed to harness the power of the body’s own cells to stimulate collagen production, reduce inflammation and promote overall skin health. The result is a more youthful, radiant complexion with a natural, refreshed look.

But what exactly are exosomes – and how do these therapies work?

What are exosomes?

A woman shows the effect of exosome therapy on the wrinkles around her eyes. Photo: Anna Avaliani

Exosomes are microscopic vesicles within our cells that are filled with important genetic material; these are released into the surrounding environment to transport vital information between cells. “[Exosomes] play an important role in cellular communication,” says Dr Ahmad Chaudhry, dual board-certified dermatologist at Scandinavian Biolabs. “Exosomes are small vesicles secreted by stem cells and other cell types that contain cargo such as proteins, lipids and nucleic acids.”

“They function like little delivery trucks, transporting these materials from one cell to another and merging with the recipient cells to deliver their cargo. This process can alter the functioning of the receiving cells, which is crucial for cellular communication and health,” adds Nicole Ho, cosmetic chemist and lab manager for Genie Supply.

What are the benefits of exosome therapy?

The anti-inflammatory benefits of exosome therapy are seen in this woman’s before and after pictures. Photo: Eternal SkinShine

Exosomes work their magic in skincare through a process called endocytosis, where the target cell consumes the exosome. Once inside, the exosome’s cargo – proteins, lipids and nucleic acids – is released, triggering a cascade of cellular responses.

For example, exosomes rich in growth factors and cytokines can stimulate cell proliferation, accelerate wound healing, and promote tissue regeneration. This makes exosomes an ideal candidate for anti-ageing and rejuvenation treatments, as they can deliver anti-ageing compounds directly to the skin cells. “Compared to ingredients like resinoids and peptides, some key advantages of exosomes may be their targeted delivery of multiple components via natural extracellular vesicles. However, more research is still needed to validate manufacturer claims and standardise exosome preparations,” Chaudhry says.

A woman displays a more youthful appearance after exosome therapy. Photo: Dr Reema Arora

Exosomes can also modulate the immune response, reducing inflammation and promoting skin health. By decreasing the production of pro-inflammatory cells, they help maintain a balanced immune response in the skin. This effect is particularly beneficial for conditions like psoriasis and atopic dermatitis, where inflammation plays a key role.