Explainer / What is ectoin, the not-so-new skincare hero ingredient? From its hydrating, protective and anti-ageing benefits, to how it works … so is it better than hyaluronic acid?

Jun 25 , 2024

Dr Jart’s Ceramidin Ectoin-infused cream. Photos: Handout

Discovered in 1985, ectoin is a powerful amino acid that naturally occurs in desert plants – when infused into beauty products, it can protect skin against UV rays, pollution and water loss

This hard-working compound combines the benefits of other popular skincare ingredients like niacinamide, ceramides and vitamin C; it hydrates, soothes, repairs the skin barrier and promotes brightness

There’s no denying that the beauty world loves a hot new ingredient … but recently, some of the most buzzed-about additions to skincare routines aren’t exactly new discoveries. Enter ectoin, a powerful amino acid that’s now stepping into the spotlight.

Biossance’s Squaline + Ectoin Overnight Rescue is an intensive overnight repair cream

Amino acids are naturally occurring organic compounds that are the building blocks of proteins. Our bodies require 20 different types of amino acids; one of the most important in the beauty arena being threonine. It’s essential for producing collagen and elastin and, therefore, repairing the everyday damage to our skin that contributes to ageing. Other organisms produce different amino acids though, and some of these can be hugely beneficial in the context of skincare.

Discovered in 1985 at an Egyptian salt lake, ectoin is sourced from the external amino acids found in hardy desert plants and microorganisms. When infused into skincare products, this hard-working ingredient acts as a powerful tool for maintaining healthy skin.

Here’s everything you need to know about the super ingredient.

What is ectoin?

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Ectoin is an extremolyte, a type of small stress-protection molecule that naturally occurs in microorganisms living in extreme environments like salt lakes, hot springs, and the Arctic. “It’s a natural substance produced by bacteria and algae that functions as an extracellular protectant. It works to stabilise proteins, lipids and the cellular membrane against environmental stresses like UV radiation, dehydration and temperature changes,” explains Dr Ahmad Chaudhry, dual board-certified dermatologist at Scandinavian Biolabs.

What are the benefits of using ectoin?

Biossance’s Squaline + Ectoin Overnight Rescue is one of a handful of products that leverages ectoin’s skin barrier-strengthening effects

According to Nicole Ho, cosmetic chemist and lab manager for Genie Supply, ectoin’s primary role in skincare is to “minimise transepidermal water loss, which is the process by which water evaporates from the deeper layers of the skin to the outside environment. By reducing this water loss, ectoin effectively strengthens the skin’s barrier”, she explains.

This enhanced barrier not only retains moisture more effectively, but also shields the skin from harmful pollutants and irritants. “As a result, skin appears healthier, more hydrated and resilient,” she adds. The versatile ingredient acts as a natural moisturiser, helping to hydrate and soothe dry, damaged and irritated skin. It binds with water to create a protective, nourishing hydration shield around cells. This makes ectoin particularly beneficial for those with dry, reactive or sensitive skin types.