Explainer / Forever young? Collagen banking is the popular new anti-ageing skincare trend that promises eternal youth – but it doesn’t work the way you think, say experts
Collagen banking is the hot new skincare trend, but scientists are skeptical. Photo: Shutterstock
Collagen, the protein responsible for skin vitality, is the cornerstone of a youthful, supple complexion. This powerhouse makes up a large portion of our skin, bones and connective tissues, providing them with structure, strength and elasticity. But as we age, our bodies naturally produce less collagen, which can lead to visible signs of ageing. This lack of collagen is what causes wrinkles, sagging skin and volume loss in the face.
The Pro-Collagen collection by British skincare brand Elemis promises a youthful complexion. Photos: Handout
The urge to retain this essential protein has led to a skincare market flooded with products – like anti-ageing creams and lip plumpers – that are infused with collagen formulas and designed to stimulate collagen production and slow its degradation. But despite its omnipresence, studies have found that applying collagen topically or ingesting it doesn’t actually do much.
Why do collagen products have a limited effect?
According to Dr Ahmad Chaudhry, dual board-certified dermatologist at Scandinavian Biolabs, while topical creams featuring collagen may contain ingredients to stimulate collagen production, they often offer limited effectiveness. “Collagen molecules are large and struggle to penetrate deep enough to make any significant difference,” he explains. Scientists have long recognised this limitation, leading to the development of collagen-boosting treatments and formulas that work from the inside out. “While collagen itself is too large to penetrate the skin’s surface, some products use a technique called hydrolysis to break it down into smaller, absorbable peptides, which can stimulate the production of new collagen in the skin.”
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Because they directly replace lost collagen and offer immediate results, dermal fillers are popular, but Chaudhry says they’re a temporary solution because they require repeated injections, which may come with a high price tag. Another popular option, collagen injections, can be useful for plumping the skin temporarily, “but your body’s collagen provides long-term structural support. Injected collagen gets broken down and needs to be replaced”.
What is collagen banking?
The endless search for ways to hang onto collagen for as long as possible has led to the concept of collagen banking. Based on the idea of “using it or losing it”, the theory behind collagen banking is that by actively stimulating collagen production in your 20s and 30s, you’ll have a larger collagen reserve in your body as you age. This stored collagen could then be used to maintain and repair your skin, bones and other tissues as they naturally decline with age. “Collagen banking is a new, trending approach to anti-ageing that focuses on proactively stimulating and preserving your very own natural collagen production,” says Chaudhry. “Unlike some treatments that simply replace collagen topically, collagen banking aims to address the root cause of wrinkles and sagging, which is the decline in your body’s ability to make collagen.”
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This concept operates on the principle of prevention rather than correction, and aims to boost collagen levels long before the signs of ageing appear. Collagen boosting works by combining various strategies, including dietary supplements, specific nutritional plans, treatments and lifestyle adjustments, all of which are tailored to enhance collagen synthesis and preservation.
What are the different kinds of collagen banking methods?
Several methods have been developed to support this type of collagen conservation, each one aiming to enhance the body’s natural collagen production or supplement it externally. Microneedling, for instance, is a technique that uses fine needles to create tiny injuries in the skin barrier, prompting the body to respond by producing more collagen and elastin. Other treatments, like chemical peels and PRP (platelet-rich plasma) therapy, offer more intensive approaches.
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Chemical peels create controlled trauma to the skin with acid solutions, enhancing collagen production by triggering the healing process. PRP therapy, on the other hand, involves injecting concentrated platelets drawn from one’s blood back into the skin, a method that’s believed to boost collagen levels significantly. Other techniques include Ultherapy, which uses ultrasound technology to lift and tighten the skin while promoting collagen production, and LED light therapy, particularly using red light, which protects existing collagen and stimulates the growth of new fibres.
The beauty market also offers a variety of collagen supplements, including powders, gels and capsules, to replenish decreasing internal stores, along with topical treatments like collagen-based serums that claim to improve skin firmness and elasticity. Dietary changes are also crucial. Consuming a diet rich in vitamin C, which is essential for collagen synthesis and effectiveness, can help maintain the skin’s collagen levels. Additionally, regular sunscreen use is vital for protecting the skin from the collagen degradation caused by UV rays.
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In essence, the techniques employed in collagen banking are very similar – if not the same – to those used in conventional anti-ageing treatments. The primary distinction lies in the timing of their application. Collagen banking involves implementing these strategies proactively, between the ages of 20 and 30, before the visible signs of ageing begin to surface.
Does collagen banking really work?
The effectiveness of collagen banking is a topic of ongoing debate among scientists and dermatologists. According to Nicole Ho, cosmetic chemist and lab manager for Genie Supply, “Collagen banking cannot actually slow down the ageing process by storing excess collagen for future use. The body naturally regulates its collagen levels, breaking down and synthesising it continuously, which means that any “banked” collagen wouldn’t be preserved indefinitely, but would instead be metabolised and eliminated as excess,” she explains.
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Regardless, Chaudhry says there are some benefits to be found with collagen banking techniques. “By supporting collagen production, you can maintain plumpness and reduce the appearance of wrinkles,” he notes. Additionally, he explains that collagen plays a role in cell renewal and hydration, “leading to a smoother, more radiant complexion”. Moreover, boosting collagen has potential preventive benefits. “Starting early can help delay the visible signs of ageing by keeping your collagen stores topped up.”
Some early studies suggest collagen banking may have anti-ageing benefits beyond just volume restoration, including the promotion overall skin health and firmness. However, the evidence supporting this is still relatively sparse and inconclusive. “Instead, the focus should be on enhancing the body’s capacity to produce collagen through lifestyle choices such as maintaining a healthy diet, avoiding excessive sun exposure, regular and consistent use of skincare products, and regular in-office procedures like microneedling and Ultherapy, rather than trying to ‘bank’ collagen physically,” Ho says.
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Most existing studies are small, have short follow-up periods, and focus on collagen extraction methods rather than long-term storage and re-injection protocols. There’s also a lack of standardisation in how collagen is collected, processed and stored, which makes it difficult to compare results across studies.
As the collagen banking trend gains momentum, Chaudhry says it’s crucial to approach it with a critical eye: “It’s essential to be realistic. Collagen banking can’t completely reverse the ageing process. It can only significantly slow down collagen loss and keep a younger appearance for longer. The limitation is that while we can stimulate collagen production, we can’t directly control it. Genetics and lifestyle factors still play a role in ageing.”
Collagen is a powerhouse protein that the body needs for skin elasticity – and its depletion through ageing causes wrinkles, sagging and volume loss
Collagen banking is a new preventive skincare trend that incorporates different treatments designed to boost and preserve collagen … but some scientists say this can’t slow the ageing process
