Hair repair: what bond-building treatments are, how they work at a molecular level to repair damage, and how to choose the right beauty product with ingredients scientifically proven to work

Jun 20 , 2024

Once available only in hair salons, bond builders can now be bought in local stores. Photos: Handout

One of the most significant beauty revolutions of the past decade has been the migration of bond repair treatments from the exclusive lands of hair salons to the shelves of local stores. These formulas promise to breathe life back into damaged hair, reducing frizz, enhancing shine, and reviving its youthful vitality.

Initially a service offered by professional stylists, bond-building treatments are now accessible for everyone to use at home. However, amid their rising popularity, experts caution against the influx of products labelled as “bond builders”, warning that not all are as effective as they claim.

Here’s what you need to know.

What are hair bonds?

Bond builders, such as Aveda’s Botanical Repair, work by repairing damaged disulfide bonds in the hair

Bond-building treatments are specialised formulas designed to repair and strengthen hair by addressing damage at structural level. “These treatments work by targeting and repairing disulfide bonds, which are crucial for maintaining the hair’s strength and elasticity,” says Ohio-based hair stylist Kaitlyn Jones.

Effective bond-building treatments act on a molecular level. Pictured here is K18’s Biomimetic Hairscience mask

Disulfide bonds can be broken down by chemical processes like colouring and bleaching, mechanical stress such as brushing and heat styling, and environmental factors including UV exposure and humidity. “Effective bond builders feature active ingredients that act at a molecular level to repair and rebuild these broken bonds, essentially healing the hair from within,” Jones adds.

What are the benefits of bond-building treatments?

Hair health is affected by numerous factors, and bond builders help by reducing breakage and improving texture and appearance. A model is pictured before and after using Living Proof’s Triple Bond Complex treatment

Primarily, they repair bonds broken by chemical, thermal and mechanical stress, leading to significant damage repair. With regular use, these treatments contribute to stronger and more resilient hair, enhancing its natural structure and ability to withstand future damage.

“They also help reduce breakage and improve overall hair health. Additionally, they enhance the texture and appearance of hair, making it look healthier, feel smoother, and become easier to manage,” Jones points out. Another notable benefit is the preservation of hair colour – by strengthening the hair, bond builders help maintain colour vibrancy and reduce fading, extending the life of your hair colour and improving its overall aesthetic.

What is the science behind bond builders?

Olaplex uses a patented molecule, Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate, to help to repair disulfide bonds

True bond builders are characterised by specific active ingredients that are scientifically proven to work. For instance, Olaplex, one of the first brands to popularise bond building, uses a patented molecule, Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate, which helps to reform disulfide bonds during and after chemical treatments.

K18 is a game changer in bond-building treatment

Another popular brand changing the bond-building game, K18, uses its own molecule, “ K18peptide”, which, according to the brand, is “a biotech-developed peptide that mimics hair’s structure to reverse the damage”.

How to choose the right bond-building formula

Buyers are advised to look for scientifically proven ingredients when shopping for treatments

As bond builders have soared in popularity, so has the number of products inaccurately labelled under this term. Without regulations, many products on the market may not deliver on their promises, leaving consumers with unsatisfactory results. To navigate the crowded market, Jones recommends looking for scientifically proven ingredients to restore hair bonds, such as keratin, amino acids or patented molecules like Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate used by brands like Olaplex.

“Even though some products may claim they help build bonds, many of these are simply highly hydrating or nourishing treatments that don’t actually repair the structural bonds within the hair,” she says. Products such as deep conditioners or hair masks are vital for adding moisture and nutrients, but they’re not formulated with the specific chemicals required to mend broken disulfide bonds like true bond builders.

Some treatments genuinely make your hair stronger, others just make it look better

As some brands’ marketing strategies can often blur the lines between mere conditioning and actual bond reinforcement, it’s essential to understand the ingredients to help discern between a product that genuinely strengthens the hair at a molecular level and one that merely improves its superficial condition and appearance.

Beauty

Hair care products from Aveda and Living Proof feature special formulas designed to repair and strengthen damaged hair, and help maintain strength and elasticity
Olaplex boasts a patented molecule, Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate, while K18 has its own peptide – but buyers beware beauty products that only claim to help build bonds