Explainer / How to apply blush right: today’s array of colours and tools means there’s a blush for everyone

Jun 10 , 2024

Anya Taylor-Joy wears Dior Backstage Rosy Glow blush. How to apply blush right: TikTok told us vibrant, 80s shades were back – but today’s array of colours, formulas and tools means there’s a blush for everyone … and yes, you can opt for a subtler look. Photo: Handout

TikTok told us vibrant 80s shades were back – high-performance products include Nars’ powder blushes and Rare Beauty by Selena Gomez

From its historical roots in the Georgian era, where a dab of faux rouge signalled robust health and vitality, to its current status as a versatile and essential make-up staple; from the powdered cheeks of the 18th century to the minimalist approaches of the 21st, blush has transcended mere trends to become a timeless item in the beauty arsenal. The resurgence of blush in the 2020s is a testament to its enduring appeal and the beauty industry’s cyclical nature. After decades of experimentation with bold brows and contouring, the return to blush arguably signifies a collective yearning for simplicity and authenticity.

But picking the perfect blush isn’t a one-size-fits-all approach – much of it comes down to what you personally love. Still, a few handy tips and tricks can make hunting down those ideal shades and formulas a whole lot easier. The first step is to identify your skin’s undertone. “Opting for shades that match your skin tone will provide a natural appearance, while choosing tones that contrast with your skin undertone can create subtle, trendy looks,” says Chinni Tsoi, Nars Hong Kong’s lead make-up artist.

Nars Blush shades Orgasm (in compact), and (from top) Dominant, Torrid, Thrill, Dolce Vita and Orgasm Rush. Photo: Handout

For a more even complexion, Tsoi advises using specific shades to correct common skin tone issues. “For redness-prone skin, avoid using red-toned blushes. Instead, try blue-based pinks, light peach and rosy peach tones for a fresh look,” she says, highlighting Nars’ Thrill, Sex Appeal and Orgasm shades as good options.

For skin that appears more yellow, Tsoi recommends avoiding brownish tones. “Instead, try blue-based pinks and berry tones to counteract the yellow-brown hue,” she says. Here’s where peach, bright coral and rich cherry tones – such as Nars’ Orgasm Rush, Dominant and Teased – can come in handy, helping brighten the complexion. On the other hand, for someone dealing with excessive pigmentation – often seen as a brown-and-blue undertone – Tsoi suggests trying “peach, coral and red-toned blushes as colour correctors and to neutralise the discolouration”.

Creamy blush sticks by Hourglass Cosmetics. Photo: Handout

Beyond colour, a blush’s finish plays a pivotal role in achieving the desired effect. Gone are the days of the one-dimensional, overly powdered cheeks of the 1980s. Modern blushes are varied enough to cater to every preference and skin type. “A powder blush usually offers a softer, satin finish,” notes Alexandra McCormick, director of global artistry development at Hourglass Cosmetics. In that category, the soft-focus effect provided by Hourglass’ Ambient Lighting Blush is McCormick’s favourite. “It’s infused with our Ambient Lighting Powder, and uses photoluminescent technology to create more multidimensional colour and dimension, providing a seamless and radiant finish,” she says.

Amid today’s surfeit of choice, powder blushes have maintained their status as a classic, appreciated for their ease of application and longevity. With advancements in formulation, powder blushes are finely milled and enriched with pigments that provide a more natural and buildable coverage.

Glossier Cloud Paint liquid blush. Photo: Handout

An example of powder’s enduring popularity is Nars’ recently reimagined powder blush line with an upgraded formula, offering 20 shades – from fresh inclusions to timeless bestsellers. “Powder blush is a familiar choice for everyone, as it is not only easy to apply but also easy to control,” Tsoi explains. “Powder blush is typically used after applying foundation and setting powder, which helps it last longer and achieve more noticeable results,” she says, adding that this can be particularly beneficial for those with oily skin.

Cream blushes have also emerged as a favourite, thanks in part to their versatility: they can be easily blended with fingers, a brush or a sponge, allowing for seamless integration into the skin. “Cream blush is known for its long-lasting and highly pigmented formula. The application method is similar to liquid blush, where you only need a small amount,” says Tsoi. Another reason for cream blushes’ popularity lies in their ability to mimic the skin’s natural glow. “Cream and liquid blushes usually provide a dewier finish and can provide more longevity on dryer skin types,” McCormick says.