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Explainer / How to apply blush right: today’s array of colours and tools means there’s a blush for everyone

Anya Taylor-Joy wears Dior Backstage Rosy Glow blush. How to apply blush right: TikTok told us vibrant, 80s shades were back – but today’s array of colours, formulas and tools means there’s a blush for everyone … and yes, you can opt for a subtler look. Photo: Handout
From its historical roots in the Georgian era, where a dab of faux rouge signalled robust health and vitality, to its current status as a versatile and essential make-up staple; from the powdered cheeks of the 18th century to the minimalist approaches of the 21st, blush has transcended mere trends to become a timeless item in the beauty arsenal. The resurgence of blush in the 2020s is a testament to its enduring appeal and the beauty industry’s cyclical nature. After decades of experimentation with bold brows and contouring, the return to blush arguably signifies a collective yearning for simplicity and authenticity.
But picking the perfect blush isn’t a one-size-fits-all approach – much of it comes down to what you personally love. Still, a few handy tips and tricks can make hunting down those ideal shades and formulas a whole lot easier. The first step is to identify your skin’s undertone. “Opting for shades that match your skin tone will provide a natural appearance, while choosing tones that contrast with your skin undertone can create subtle, trendy looks,” says Chinni Tsoi, Nars Hong Kong’s lead make-up artist.
Nars Blush shades Orgasm (in compact), and (from top) Dominant, Torrid, Thrill, Dolce Vita and Orgasm Rush. Photo: Handout
For a more even complexion, Tsoi advises using specific shades to correct common skin tone issues. “For redness-prone skin, avoid using red-toned blushes. Instead, try blue-based pinks, light peach and rosy peach tones for a fresh look,” she says, highlighting Nars’ Thrill, Sex Appeal and Orgasm shades as good options.

For skin that appears more yellow, Tsoi recommends avoiding brownish tones. “Instead, try blue-based pinks and berry tones to counteract the yellow-brown hue,” she says. Here’s where peach, bright coral and rich cherry tones – such as Nars’ Orgasm Rush, Dominant and Teased – can come in handy, helping brighten the complexion. On the other hand, for someone dealing with excessive pigmentation – often seen as a brown-and-blue undertone – Tsoi suggests trying “peach, coral and red-toned blushes as colour correctors and to neutralise the discolouration”.

Creamy blush sticks by Hourglass Cosmetics. Photo: Handout
Beyond colour, a blush’s finish plays a pivotal role in achieving the desired effect. Gone are the days of the one-dimensional, overly powdered cheeks of the 1980s. Modern blushes are varied enough to cater to every preference and skin type. “A powder blush usually offers a softer, satin finish,” notes Alexandra McCormick, director of global artistry development at Hourglass Cosmetics. In that category, the soft-focus effect provided by Hourglass’ Ambient Lighting Blush is McCormick’s favourite. “It’s infused with our Ambient Lighting Powder, and uses photoluminescent technology to create more multidimensional colour and dimension, providing a seamless and radiant finish,” she says.

Amid today’s surfeit of choice, powder blushes have maintained their status as a classic, appreciated for their ease of application and longevity. With advancements in formulation, powder blushes are finely milled and enriched with pigments that provide a more natural and buildable coverage.

Glossier Cloud Paint liquid blush. Photo: Handout

An example of powder’s enduring popularity is Nars’ recently reimagined powder blush line with an upgraded formula, offering 20 shades – from fresh inclusions to timeless bestsellers. “Powder blush is a familiar choice for everyone, as it is not only easy to apply but also easy to control,” Tsoi explains. “Powder blush is typically used after applying foundation and setting powder, which helps it last longer and achieve more noticeable results,” she says, adding that this can be particularly beneficial for those with oily skin.

Cream blushes have also emerged as a favourite, thanks in part to their versatility: they can be easily blended with fingers, a brush or a sponge, allowing for seamless integration into the skin. “Cream blush is known for its long-lasting and highly pigmented formula. The application method is similar to liquid blush, where you only need a small amount,” says Tsoi. Another reason for cream blushes’ popularity lies in their ability to mimic the skin’s natural glow. “Cream and liquid blushes usually provide a dewier finish and can provide more longevity on dryer skin types,” McCormick says.

Also in the liquid blush category: Saie Dew Blush. Photo: Handout
Finally, there is the blush sphere’s latest innovation: liquid blushes. These formulas offer the highest pigmentation level and the most versatility in terms of application intensity and easy blendability. In this category, formulas like Soft Pinch Liquid Blush by Rare Beauty (which is endorsed by Selena Gomez), Cloud Paint by Glossier and Dew Blush by Saie have become viral sensations. Stevie Adams, head of education and pro artist at Saie, describes the brand’s liquid blush as an effortless flush with a gorgeous, dewy finish. “It has some translucency to it and blends like a dream, making it very easy to apply regardless of skill level,” she says. “It has a stained glass effect that still allows your skin to shine through, so it looks so natural.”
One of the most influential platforms driving blush’s renaissance has been TikTok, where creators share a diverse array of blush options and application styles, from lifting effects to the popular sun-kissed look. Adams explains that, as blush draws attention and plumps up the area you’re applying it to, it can be used strategically to shift focus towards or away from certain features. “You can achieve [a lifted] look, regardless of face shape, to give the illusion of higher, more prominent cheekbones.” To achieve this, Adams recommends placing your blush about an inch below the outside corner of your eye and blending back towards the ear and up into the temple area. “When blending towards the nose, make sure to avoid going past the centre of the eye, under the pupil. You want to keep this placement really wide and high.”
Dior Backstage Rosy Glow Blush. Photo: Handout

For a more soft, round and plump effect, “you will want to apply the blush more on the apples of the cheeks to keep it looking more full,” Adams elaborates. “You can blend in a bit closer to the nose, but keep the pigment focused more in the centre of the cheek instead of blending it up into the temple.”

Another key to blush application lies in starting light and gradually building pigment. “It’s always easier to add more product rather than try and take it away,” McCormick notes. Using the right brush is equally important. “For more precision application, I love to use the smaller end of [Hourglass Cosmetics’] Veil Powder Brush,” she adds.

Armani Silk Glow Blush. Photo: Handout

A common mistake is applying blush too low on the face. “This drags the face down when the goal of blush is to lift. To avoid this, do not go lower than the cheekbone when applying. Always apply on or above the cheekbone and ensure it blends upwards towards your temples and hairline. This gives the appearance of a lifted complexion,” McCormick says.

Another usual error is not choosing a starting point. “The strongest colour payoff will be at the first point of brush contact to skin,” Tsoi notes. “Start application where the strongest impact is desired, as this is the area where you will create the most prominent ‘flushed’ effect.”

By embracing blush as a key element of our make-up arsenal, we not only enhance our physical appearance but also connect with a centuries-old tradition of self-expression through colour. Whether seeking a natural, understated look or a bold, statement-making appearance, blush offers the flexibility and range to achieve any desired effect.
Beauty
  • TikTok told us vibrant 80s shades were back – high-performance products include Nars’ powder blushes and Rare Beauty by Selena Gomez