Do medical-grade skincare products really deliver? Doctor-formulated cosmetics from SkinCeuticals, Dr Hauschka, Dr Dennis Gross, Augustinus Bader and IS Clinical get the seal of approval from experts

May 5 , 2024

Experts advise looking for medical-grade products from the likes of SkinCeuticals, Dr Hauschka, Dr Dennis Gross, Augustinus Bader and IS Clinical, which evidence says are better long-term than typical over-the-counter skincare. Photo: SCMP

While the appeal of medical-grade products is growing, consumers should still check clinical claims carefully before making a choice – it pays to educate yourself about pH levels and consider regulatory advice

Biophora US president Madeline Wolkove highlights the proven effects of alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids, L-ascorbic acid, antioxidants, vitamins and botanicals, hyaluronic acid and peptides

When it comes to choosing a skincare routine, the options can seem limitless. We might rightly wonder if those high-end products really do more than basic finds from the local chemist’s. But the real question mark lingers over the so-called “medical-grade” formulas.

With claims of leveraging cutting-edge research and high-potency ingredients, medical-grade skincare products appeal to a growing segment of consumers who seek not just cosmetic improvements but genuine, long-term benefits for their skin. But do these brands deliver on their promise, or are they simply capitalising on the credibility of their founders’ credentials?

Doctor-formulated skincare brands stand out in the crowded beauty landscape by virtue of their origin: they’re developed with direct input or oversight from medical professionals, often dermatologists or plastic surgeons, who bring their clinical experience and scientific knowledge to the table. The premise is simple: leverage medical expertise to create skincare solutions that are not just effective but also safe and tailored to address specific concerns. Some of these professionals hold impressive credentials: board certifications, years of clinical practice, and often affiliations with academic institutions or research contributions to the field of dermatology.

These brands often emphasise the importance of incorporating active ingredients such as retinoids, peptides, vitamin C and antioxidants – proven in clinical studies to address specific skin concerns like ageing, acne and hyperpigmentation.

“The key is not just in selecting these efficacious components but in using them at concentrations that are both safe and effective, mirroring the dosages that would be used in clinical settings for tangible results,” says Dr Bob CY Chan, consultant dermatologist and Mohs micrographic surgeon (Mohs surgery is microscopically controlled surgery used to treat both common and rare types of skin cancer).

Dr Barbara Sturm with one of her products

This philosophy is guided by the principle that less is more, in terms of the number of products in a skincare regimen and the ingredient lists of the products themselves. “The focus is on delivering products that provide the most benefit with the least potential for irritation or adverse reactions, avoiding the inclusion of unnecessary fillers, fragrances and other additives that can complicate skincare routines without adding value,” Chan says.

In this competitive field, certain brands have distinguished themselves as the leading figures in medical-grade formulations, capturing the trust and loyalty of consumers worldwide. Brands such as IS Clinical, SkinCeuticals, Dr Hauschka, Dr Dennis Gross, Dr Barbara Sturm, Augustinus Bader, 111Skin and Biophora have become synonymous with high-quality, effective skincare solutions that promise and deliver exceptional results.