What are the best gentle alternatives to retinol? La Mer, SkinCeuticals, Dr Barbara Sturm and other brands all offer anti-ageing solutions for more sensitive skin

Nov 3 , 2024

Bakuchiol, rosehip oil, azelaic acid and niacinamide all offer many of the benefits of retinol without the redness and flaking that some users suffer from. Photo: Beekman

Bakuchiol, rosehip oil, azelaic acid and niacinamide all offer at least some of the benefits of retinol without the redness and flaking that some users suffer from

Have you ever stood in front of the mirror and wondered if the skincare routine that’s supposed to turn back the clock is actually making things worse? If you have, you aren’t alone, especially if you’ve been placing your bets on retinol. Often hailed as the holy grail of anti-ageing, retinol boasts a track record that’s hard to beat, but it can also be a bit of a frenemy.

While this valued member of the vitamin A family smooths out fine lines and boosts collagen, it can also leave skin red and flaky.

“It’s like the overachiever of the skincare world, reducing wrinkles, fading dark spots, and making your skin look like it’s had eight hours of sleep, even when it hasn’t,” says San Antonio dermatologist Dr Annabelle Garcia.

Augustinus Bader The Retinol Serum. Photos: Handout

But all this power comes at a price. Retinol can be quite aggressive, especially for beginners or those with sensitive skin. Irritation, dryness and an initial worsening of acne are some of the possible side effects. The good news is that if you are among those seeing such side effects in the mirror, there are kinder, gentler alternatives around. But can they match the effectiveness of retinol?

This July, luxury skincare brand La Mer introduced The Rejuvenating Night Cream, featuring its new MRA-3 complex, which the brand touts as a retinol alternative. This complex is a blend of marine-derived powerhouses like sea fennel extract and brown algae, which deliver anti-ageing effects without the irritation and adjustment period typically associated with retinol.

But can such alternatives hold a candle to retinol? That depends entirely on your skin’s needs. “For those with sensitive skin, retinol alternatives might just be the perfect match,” Garcia says.

Since everyone’s skin reacts differently, for some, these alternatives could be just as effective as – if not better than – going the traditional route. “Some might stick with retinol most of the year but switch to a milder option when the weather gets harsh. Those with dryness or sensitivity, or anyone who’s pregnant or nursing, will find these alternatives more suitable,” she adds.

Herbivore Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Smoothing Serum

Among the alternatives, bakuchiol has emerged as the stand-out natural substitute. Sourced from the babchi plant, this botanical wonder “stimulates collagen production and boosts skin elasticity, much like retinol, but without the well-known side effects”, Garcia says. “It is safe to use during pregnancy, which is a major advantage over retinol,” she adds.