How to choose the best toner for dry or oily skin – and why brands like Benefit and Tata Harper outstripped 90s Neutrogena

Oct 13 , 2024

Today’s toner products are much gentler with your skin than classic 90s Neutrogena – try La Mer (pictured), SK-II, Aesop or Tata Harper, and feel the difference. Photos: Handout

Experts from Wild Ice Botanicals and Optaderm outline the differences between toner types, while La Mer, SK-II, Aesop and Tata Harper present luxurious options

Back in the 1990s, a toner often meant that iconic clear Neutrogena bottle of blue or orange liquid, an astringent ally in the battle against teenage acne. However, as dermatological research advanced, it became evident that such aggressive treatment could damage the skin’s barrier, leading to increased sensitivity and, ironically, more oil production as the skin tried to compensate for dryness.

Fast-forward to the present, and the scene has dramatically shifted. Awareness of potential harm done to the skin has led to fresh approaches to toner products, most recently further influenced by Korean beauty innovations. Today, toners and essences are less about punishment and more about pampering.

Benefit the Porefessional Hydropop is just one of the many improved toners on the market today

These formulations are typically enriched with hydrating, soothing and regenerative components. Ingredients like green tea, rose water and camomile extract are common, offering moisture, reducing inflammation and soothing the skin.

“Skincare toners are liquid-based products designed to be applied to the skin after cleansing but before moisturising,” Liudmila Busch, founder and master formulator at Wild Ice Botanicals, explains.

“Well-formulated toners help to balance the skin’s pH levels (the main purpose of toners), remove any remaining traces of dirt and make-up, boost hydration and generally prime the skin for better absorption of subsequent skincare products,” she adds.

“Toners help restore the skin’s pH to about 5.5, which is essential as tap water quality deteriorates globally. This restoration not only refreshes the skin but also brings instant hydration and soothing effects,” says Dean-Richard Johansson, head skincare scientist at Vancouver-based clinic Optaderm. Moreover, some toners include mild exfoliants that assist in “removing dead and dull skin cells, contributing to a smoother and more refined skin surface”, he adds.

Over the years, toners have advanced to provide diverse ways to target different skin issues. “For normal skin, a toner with a neutral pH of 5.5 is ideal. Ingredients such as allantoin, caffeine and niacinamide are good options as they soothe the skin, calm redness and help the skin maintain a healthy balance,” Johansson says.