Style File: 10 minutes with designer Nicholas Kirkwood
Tina Cheung
Ten years after Nicholas Kirkwood launched his eponymous footwear brand, the designer created the “10” collection to mark the brand’s decade milestone.
Kirkwood talks to STYLE about the brand’s 10th anniversary. Keep an eye out on our event report in our November issue, out on Friday.
Q: What does the 10th anniversary or the “10” collection mean to you?
A: I think it’s a chance for me to look back at everything I’d done and to create a special capsule collection which is made-to-order and more like collectable pieces – especially in the way I presented [the collection]. Definitely more like a couture kind of products. Everything is very hand-made, and there are a lot of complex techniques and modern technologies involved. For me, it’s very emotional – it’s a purely creative project.
Q: How has Nicholas Kirkwood, the brand, evolved over the decade?
A: The first seven years, I’d been doing high heels and I didn’t do anything else. Of course now, our collection is much wider – we have flats and mid-heights. Definitely more mature and complete now.
Q: What do you expect in the next 10 years?
A: I’d like to get evolved to have some other product categories, may be jewellery or bags, and sunglasses – whatever it might be.
Q: Why is there the idea of “collectable toys” packaging? Do you expect people to wear them or collect them?
A: It fits in with the whole concept. It’s almost like a cult of collecting toys from that period and keeping them in their boxes. They can be worn – you can have them and order whatever size … but I would love it if people just keep them in boxes.
Q: While we see the old things, there are also modern elements. How do you balance the two aesthetics?
A: A lot of the techniques and materials are very modern, but the shoes are inspired by the ’80s.
Q: Does each pair of shoes represent one thing from the 1980s or is it a combination of collective memories?
A: Each pair has its own character. Sometimes, it may be from a film, or from a game; some of them are very obvious – most of them are pretty obvious as you can see the box. It’s a collection, they all sit well together. You could almost pick any two and put them together.