Subtle luxury is the new trend in watchmaking

Sep 3 , 2015

Vacheron Constantin is among the many luxury watch brands that organise exhibitions to showcase their heritage and know-how.

Watchmakers are shifting from over-the-top designs to simple and chic pieces that focus on craftsmanship

Grand feu is almost a lost art in luxury watchmaking. The delicate technique that heats layers of enamelling powder in an oven at temperatures up to 1,000 degrees Celsius to achieve a subtle patina is extremely costly and time-consuming. Yet, to untrained eyes, the discreet decorative effect could easily be overlooked compared to otherwise lavishly decorated skeletonised or diamond-paved dials.

The technique has been revived by high-end watchmakers from Patek Philippe to Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin. Collectors and connoisseurs are ravished by such hidden gems that define luxury in a much more discreet manner.

Details such as grand feu enamel, secret watches and concealed complications, including tourbillons, have been included in high-end watch offerings the past two years, reflecting a growing appetite for subtle luxury.

Delicate enamelling on the dial is a signature technique perfected by Jaeger-LeCoultre artisans.

Piaget's Altiplano Chronograph features an ultrathin calibre and a minimalistic design.

"It's very difficult to make something simple," says Stephen Forsey of luxury independent watch brand Greubel Forsey. "Collectors are evolving. They have a deeper understanding of the subject and are seeking out refined and [simple] designs."

Greubel Forsey's latest novelty Tourbillon 24 Seconds Vision, for example, features a grand feu dial heated in the oven eight times and a dome housing the inclined tourbillon visible only on the caseback. The elegant piece was a rare addition to the brand's avant-garde portfolio.

Veteran watchmaker Laurent Ferrier agrees and says: "Luxury is not to show off and say, 'look at my watch - it costs 20,000 Swiss francs [HK$156,600]'. It's to let your watch do the talking. Beautiful, classic and discreet, with special movements to show a friend or two who can also appreciate, to me that's the real definition of luxury."

Ferrier's ultra-exclusive Galet Secret Tourbillon Double Spiral can set you back HK$2.55million for the white gold version. At this year's prominent luxury watch fairs, including Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) and Baselworld, the sentiment towards more simple designs is evident.

"Compared with last year's SIHH, fewer new references and collections were introduced," says Jeffrey Yau, CEO of Europe Watch Company. "Extravagant masterpieces were not prevalent. The trend has become more down-to-earth and classical, focusing on sophistication and craftsmanship."

Emperor Watch and Jewellery chairwoman Cindy Yeung agrees. She describes the transition in trends from "over-the-top designs and prices" towards more "subtle" novelties.