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Ron Emmons

Some of the most distinctive and unforgettable sights of Thailand are the dollhouse-sized buildings, frequently draped in garlands, that stand on pillars in the gardens of homes or in the grounds of public buildings.
Their form varies from simple, stilted representations of Thai houses to elaborate temple buildings, reflecting the status of the owner.
They are common, but spirit houses are a little understood aspect of Thai culture.
Thais believe that physical ownership of land is not enough to guarantee a happy and secure existence. To bring this about requires the assistance of the spirit of the land, known as Phra Phum.

“Phra” means “venerable one” and is also used to refer to monks. “Phum” comes from the Sanskrit “bhumi”, meaning “earth” or “soil”. The shrine in which the spirit takes up residence is called “san” in Thai, so a spirit house is referred to as a san phra phum.
Establishing a spirit house is a complex process. First, a Brahmin priest must be consulted to ascertain the best place in which to erect it and the most auspicious time at which to conduct the establishing ceremony. To avoid the human and spirit worlds mingling, the shrine should not be erected in the shadow of the main building. In the case of tall buildings with no grounds, this means that the shrine is built on the roof, often in the incongruous company of a satellite dish.

To propitiate the land spirit, regular (usually daily) offerings of food, flowers and incense are made at the san phra phum, and special events in the life of the owner, such as a marriage or job interview, will demand something more like a feast.
The land spirit is represented by a small statue of a young man holding a sword to ward off evil spirits and a money bag to confer prosperity on the household. In typically thoughtful Thai manner, he is often accompanied by an elderly couple to act as caretakers, dancers for his entertainment and sometimes a retinue of animals such as elephants and horses.

Spirit houses date back to long before Buddhism became the most powerful force in shaping the country, when animism was the main form of religious expression. Yet it is consistent with the tolerant nature of Buddhism that these shrines continue to exist; indeed, there is a spirit house in almost every temple compound, although sometimes a Buddha image inhabits the shrine instead of Phra Phum.
Some shrines are believed to grant wishes and are therefore constantly swathed in offerings.
The most famous spirit house in all Thailand is the Erawan Shrine, in the heart of Bangkok, where the scent of incense and a reverential atmosphere stand in stark contrast to the Skytrain whizzing above and the brash commercialism of neighbouring shopping malls. The shrine was erected in 1956, after the deaths of construction workers building the adjacent hotel. The accidents stopped immediately.

These days, supplicants seeking to gain promotion at work, to win the heart of a loved one, or even to know the winning lottery numbers voice their appeals to the figure occupying the Erawan Shrine, a four-faced representation of Brahma, the Hindu god of creation, known to Thais as Phra Phrom.
Petitioners who find success return to the shrine to make more offerings in thanks for the spirit’s help, often hiring a troupe of dancers, who are constantly on hand, to perform a dance of gratitude.
In 2015, the shrine was the scene of a deadly bomb attack, which killed 20 people and injured many more.

While spirits live forever, just like humans, spirit houses are subject to the ravages of time and occasionally it becomes necessary to discard a house that has fallen into disrepair. This is not a simple matter of slinging it onto the street for the rubbish collectors.
Before removal, a small ceremony must be held in which the spirit is asked to vacate the house, which may then be disposed of in an appropriate place, such as in a river or under a bodhi tree.
Finally, the cycle begins again, with a new establishing ceremony for the spirit’s new residence.


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An elaborate spirit house
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The spirit house at the late American businessman Jim Thompson’s house in Bangkok. Photo: Ron Emmons

Bangkok’s Erawan Shrine, the most famous spirit house in Thailand. Photo: Ron Emmons

A rural spirit house is laden with offerings. Photo: Ron Emmons

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The land spirit carries a sword and bag of money. Photo: Ron Emmons

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Every visitor to Thailand will have passed a spirit house, but they are a little understood aspect of the local culture – here’s why the san phra phum is so lovingly maintained


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Explainer | What are Thailand’s colourful spirit houses – and how are they set up? From Bangkok’s famous Erawan Shrine to humble rural outposts

Every visitor to Thailand will have passed a spirit house, but they are a little understood aspect of the local culture – here’s why the san phra phum is so lovingly maintained