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Climbers and mountain guides are stranded between the South Summit and the Hillary Step of Mount Everest on May 21 after an ice collapse destroyed the fixed ropes used for climbing. The collapse was responsible for two of the eight known deaths on the peak in the spring climbing season. Photo: Getty Images
Opinion
Destinations known
by Mark Footer
Destinations known
by Mark Footer

Another deadly Everest spring climbing season – why are so many so eager to reach the summit?

  • Eight dead, two of whom plunged into thin air when an ice ledge collapsed amid a high-altitude traffic jam – the crowds on Everest keep growing
  • As author Jon Krakauer wrote after a similar disaster in 1996, ‘Everest has always been a magnet for kooks … and others with a shaky hold on reality’

The pre-monsoon climbing season in Nepal has come to a close for another year and once again it has been a deadly one.

The spring 2024 death toll among those attempting to summit Everest stands, at the time of writing, at eight, with other fatalities elsewhere in the Nepali Himalayas.

Mongolians Usukhjargal Tsedendamba, 53, and Prevsuren Lkhagvajav, 31, who died after summiting, were the first to perish, on May 13, and Indian Banshi Lal, 46, the latest.

On May 21, Pastenji Sherpa, 23, and Briton Daniel Paterson, 40, fell to their deaths near the Hillary Step – a narrow ridge close to the summit – after reaching the top. The search for their bodies has been complicated by the fact they fell on the Chinese side of the mountain. (Incidentally, China reopened the much less busy Tibetan route to foreigners this year for the first time since closing it in 2020 because of the Covid-19 pandemic.)

The following day, Kenyan Joshua Cheruiyot Kirui, 40, died above the Hillary Step while his Nepali guide, Nawang Sherpa, 44, went missing and is presumed dead.

Nepali climber (although not a Sherpa) Binod Babu Bastakoti, 37, also died after summiting that day.

A large traffic jam formed as climbers returning from the summit met a line of others heading for the mountain’s highest point.
Outside website describes the scene just below the summit on May 21

It is an improvement on last year, when there were 18 fatalities on Everest, including two from Malaysia and one each from China and Singapore, but how many other leisure activities come with such a high mortality rate?

Horses for courses, but for the life of us we can’t understand why people are so desperate to get to the top of this particular rock, even if it is, at 8,849 metres (29,029 feet), the world’s highest.

“Because it’s there” – the famous quote by George Mallory, who himself lost his life on Everest, in 1924 – cannot be the only reason driving the hundreds of climbers who set out for the summit each year, Sherpas on hand to guide them up.

Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on their climb to the top of Everest. In 1953 they became the first climbers confirmed to have reached the summit. Photo: Alfred Gregory/Royal Geographic Society

We understand the sense of achievement Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay must have felt in 1953, when they became the first people confirmed to have reached the summit of Everest, and that of the Chinese team (Wang Fuzhou, Qu Yinhua and Tibetan Gonpo Wangyal) who were reportedly the first to reach the top from the northern side seven years later.

We can even understand that of the few who repeated the feat in the following years, including Japan’s Junko Tabei, who became the first woman to reach the top, in 1975.

But nowadays, in the brief periods when the weather is favourable, there are so many folk popping up for a quick summit that a long queue is often filmed inching its way up the South Col.

Junko Tabei on the summit of Everest in 1975. She was the first woman to reach the top. Photo: Getty Images

A video posted on X by the Everest Today account, captured on May 20, shows just such a line of climbers at the Yellow Band – a prominent layer of rock at about 7,700 metres – that is painful to watch.

And it was such overcrowding that apparently contributed to the deaths of Paterson and his guide.

“The accident happened […] at 7am, near the section of the route formerly called the Hillary Step, a steep, razor-thin ridge of rock and ice located at 28,839 feet, just a few hundred feet from the top,” recounts the Outside website.

“A large traffic jam formed as climbers returning from the summit met a line of others heading for the mountain’s highest point. As the groups navigated the bottleneck, the ice ledge they were standing on broke free and tumbled down the peak’s northern side.

“Eyewitnesses told Base Camp officials that six climbers fell on the mountain’s sheer Kangshung Face, which towers over Tibet. Four were saved by a rope.”

After those climbers were saved, guides realised that two climbers fell down the peak
Outside reports on the aftermath of the ice ledge collapse

Outside quoted Nga Tenji Sherpa of The Summit Force expeditions as saying the climbers who were clipped into safety ropes dangled some 35 feet below the route on the exposed slope.

Hanging from a crumbling ice ledge above a sheer drop and certain death may one day make for a wonderful after-dinner story for those who made it back down the mountain, but I bet they had other things on their minds as they dangled there, waiting – hoping – to be rescued by brave Sherpas.

“Guides from Summit Force Expeditions and other companies worked together to pull them to safety. After those climbers were saved, guides realised that two climbers fell down the peak,” reports Outside. “Whether or not they were connected to the rope is not known.”

An enormous line of climbers at 7,700 metres altitude snakes up towards the summit of Mount Everest on May 20. Photo: Twitter/Everest Today

Pastenji Sherpa and Paterson fell into thin air, which just so happens to be the title of the 1997 bestselling book by Jon Krakauer that details his experience of an Everest disaster the previous year, in which eight climbers were killed and others were stranded by a storm.

So why do people do it, Jon?

“There were many, many fine reasons not to go, but attempting to climb Everest is an intrinsically irrational act, a triumph of desire over sensibility,” writes the American author.

Someone who must be bubbling over with that desire is the oh-so-appropriately named British climber Kenton Cool, who this spring achieved a record (for a non-Sherpa) 18 Everest summits.

Eighteen times! Surely there must be diminishing returns to climbing the same thing over and over again.

There again, writes Krakauer, “Everest has always been a magnet for kooks, publicity seekers, hopeless romantics, and others with a shaky hold on reality.”

Something to ponder ahead of the post-monsoon Everest climbing season, which runs from late September to early November.

An elephant carries a tourist during a performance in Pattaya, Thailand. Petitioners are calling for an end to exploitation of the animals by the tourist trade. Photo: Getty Images

Trumpet call

Sometimes you just have to give people a nudge.

On May 27, World Animal Protection handed a petition signed by more than 172,000 concerned global citizens to Thai Prime Minister Srettha Thavisin demanding his government commits to end the exploitation of elephants in the country’s tourism industry.

The charity is asking Srettha and his lawmakers to stop delaying the draft Elephant Protection Bill, which is before parliament in Thailand.

Every year, thousands of elephants are subjected to cruel handling and training methods that force them to give rides and perform outdated “circus” tricks for fee-paying tourists.

Animal welfare campaigners from World Animal Protection Thailand hand in a global petition to the Thai government demanding an end of cruel captive breeding of elephants for the country’s tourism sector. Photo: World Animal Protection

World Animal Protection Thailand led the drafting of the legislation, working with politicians, experts and the public to create a law that forbids captive elephant breeding for commercial purposes.

The bill received support from Thai voters in 2022, leading to its introduction into the legislative process.

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