Sumatra, Indonesia; the good and the bad: orangutans, dramatic volcanoes, lakes and fantastic food, but terrible roads, deforestation and tiger attacks
- Sumatra is famous for its wild orangutans and tigers, rainforests, incredible surfing, biodiversity, volcanoes, and the amazing Lake Toba
- However, there are downsides: bad roads, terrible public transport, deforestation caused by illegal logging and palm oil plantations, and natural disasters
Straddling the equator, Sumatra is the sixth largest island in the world – 172 Hong Kongs could fit inside it. A biologically diverse region of awe-inspiring landscapes, its natural beauty seduces botanists and backpackers, birdwatchers and beach lovers.
Volatile volcanoes belch clouds of steam and ash skywards and earthquakes generate shock waves that reverberate for thousands of miles. National parks such as Gunung Leuser are recognised for their abundant and varied wildlife – the Unesco biosphere reserve is the only place left on Earth where tigers, elephants, rhinos and orangutans live alongside one another in the wild.
This Indonesian Eden is culturally diverse, too. Ancient ethnic groups, each with unique practices, languages and beliefs, rub shoulders with backpackers and bleach-haired surfers in board shorts.
No trip to Sumatra is complete without an orangutan encounter. The rehabilitation centre and feeding station in the village of Bukit Lawang have both closed, but guided jungle treks provide an opportunity to see our orange-furred relations in their natural environment.
Sumatran tigers are harder to spot. Try your luck in the Kerinci Seblat National Park, which is home to a third of the 400 to 500 remaining in the wild.
