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Rwandan national park’s recovery a success story for conservation and tourism

The Akagera park suffered grievously in civil war of early 1990s but has earned back its ‘Big Five’ credentials to become a focus of national pride for Rwandans and a hot ticket destination for tourists

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A fish eagle in the Akagera National Park. Pictures: Daniel Allen

In Akagera National Park, another glorious day gives way to a warm, velvety night. A pair of African fish eagles return to roost on the shore of Lake Ihema, their finger-like primary feathers silhouetted against the purple-hued sky. The birds’ haunting cries reverberate across the placid waters and are swallowed in the gloaming.

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This part of eastern Rwanda moves to nature’s rhymes and rhythms. At the Ruzizi Tented Lodge, the nightly hippo concert begins, a medley of belches, bellows, grunts and splashes breaking out a few metres below the property’s lakeside dining plat­form. With guests enjoying beers and cock­tails, semi-submerged bulls announce their presence with tuba-like blasts, seemingly oblivious to the merrymaking overhead.

Akagera’s scenery is a draw for tourists.
Akagera’s scenery is a draw for tourists.

On the rustic side of luxurious, Ruzizi is far from the fanciest of safari accommoda­tions (it doesn’t have its own vehicles and there’s no Wi-fi), but that hasn’t stopped the 20-bed eco-camp from proving a hit with visitors, drawn in increasing numbers to witness one of the most hearten­ing conser­vation stories in Africa. Two decades on from the conflict that ravaged Rwanda, this up-and-coming park is now helping the so-called “Land of a Thousand Hills” make headlines for all the right reasons.

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