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See a rare West African conservation success story

Shifting mindsets have allowed people living around Senegal's Sine-Saloum Delta – and visitors – to get the most of its lush, life-giving environment

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A mangrove reforestation programme. Pictures: Daniel Allen

As his wooden pirogue putt-putts through the dense man­groves of Senegal’s Sine-Saloum Delta, Mamadou Bakhoum is in a race with the tide. Dressed some­what incongruously in an ill-fitting beekeep­ing suit, he keeps a weather eye on the congested mass of roots beside the boat. If the water rises much higher, his latest honey haul will have to wait.

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“Sometimes the tide here is hard to predict,” says the muscular agri­cultural engineer, one hand resting on the tiller of his rusty outboard. “Reaching the hives across the mangrove mud is difficult at the best of times. When the water’s up, it’s impossible.”

Bakhoum lives with 500 other souls in Dassilame Serere, a scattering of thatched huts, mud-brick buildings and sandy roads next to a stretch of the Saloum River.

Under the inter-village development scheme, villagers such as Khady Diouf no longer damage the mangroves on a daily hunt for wild oysters but prefer to farm the area’s healthier soil.
Under the inter-village development scheme, villagers such as Khady Diouf no longer damage the mangroves on a daily hunt for wild oysters but prefer to farm the area’s healthier soil.

Situated just north of the Gambian border, the Unesco World Heritage-listed, 1,800-sq-km delta is one of West Africa’s ecological jewels. Formed where two rivers – the Sine and the Saloum – con­verge on the Atlantic, the delta’s laby­rinth­­ine network of shallow bolongs (creeks), lagoons, man­grove forest and sand islands is home to monkeys, hyenas and a huge variety of birds and fish.

“For an agricultural engineer, the delta is a bountiful paradise,” says Bakhoum, with a smile. “When the tide doesn’t get in the way.”

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