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Then & Now | Why Chinese love fermented bean curd and even stinky tofu: it’s cheap, adds flavour to rice and congee, is a good source of protein, and lots more

  • Easily digestible and healthy, a cube or two of fermented bean curd added to a bowl of rice or congee gives additional taste to an otherwise bland meal
  • Even stinky tofu – an eye-wateringly pungent streetside snack made by deep frying fermented bean curd – can become very addictive to those who come to enjoy it

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Blocks of fermented bean curd are deep-fried to make 
stinky tofu at a streetside snack stall in Hong Kong. Fermented tofu is a staple of cuisines across China and the diaspora. Photo: SCMP

Humble, pungent-tasting foo yu – fermented blocks of bean curd – are a staple of cuisines across China and the diaspora. A favourite from when I first encountered them in the home of Chinese friends in Malaysia, long before coming to live in Hong Kong, this inexpensive item has been a kitchen store-cupboard favourite ever since.

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Foo yu is a good source of vegetable protein. Easily digestible and healthy, a cube or two added to a bowl of rice or congee gives additional taste to an otherwise bland meal, and is cheap enough for even the poorest households to consume daily.

An array of variants can be found; some are preserved in vinegar or brine, others are packed in oil. Many are entirely plain and resemble feta cheese; others are heavily seasoned with garlic, red chillies, Sichuan pepper or ginger.

Like many such items, a small-scale local industry evolved around foo yu production; in Hong Kong, long-established, family-owned and operated shops from Kennedy Town to Tsuen Wan all have their own loyal customers.

Most fermented bean curd is sold pre-packaged with old-fashioned labels. Photo: SCMP
Most fermented bean curd is sold pre-packaged with old-fashioned labels. Photo: SCMP

Along with other Hong Kong heritage food items, artisanal foo yu is mostly produced on the premises in small batches using closely guarded (if similar) family recipes.

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