The women leading China’s winemaking revolution, attracting attention of LVMH and Pernod Ricard

The morning sun is high in a translucent sky and a gentle breeze sweeps the plains on the outskirts of Yinchuan, capital of the Ningxia Hui auto­nomous region. As the mist slowly evaporates to reveal the rugged Helan Mountains, scores of women begin to fill the surrounding vineyards. Dressed in jeans, light jumpers and colourful headscarves, they crouch along rows of vines, collecting ripe grapes in green plastic boxes.

It is harvest time, the most important part of the year here on the edge of the Gobi desert.

Admiring the orderly vines stretching towards majestic peaks, almost as far as the eye can see, it is difficult to believe that, just 20 years ago, this enchanting part of northwestern China was little more than a forlorn stretch of sand inhabited by a scattering of subsistence farmers.

“When I was a kid, I used to dig holes in the desert. I would hide there and play with my friends,” recalls 41-year-old Ren Yanling, sitting in her laboratory during a rare break.

Energetic and hardworking, Ren was born in the village of Yuquanying, close to the Helan Mountain winery. Now chief winemaker for the operation, which is owned by French multinational Pernod Ricard, her parents were growing grapes back in the 1990s. “When I was 15, I would sneak out to have a sip of our family wine,” she says, laughing. “My parents didn’t allow me to drink, but I really enjoyed it.”

Ren is just one of a number of women winery owners, managers and winemakers leading China’s oenological revolution. Some are young, others have been in the business for decades, perfecting their skills in historical Bordeaux wineries and partnering with top international brands. In Ningxia, their eye for detail and quality have been instrumental in the industry’s boom.