Can’t book ‘world’s best restaurant’ Central? Mil, also in Peru, is a fascinating alternative from Central’s chef couple that follows the same principles
- Sitting 3,500 metres above sea level in the Andes mountains, Mil is social enterprise, research lab and fine-dining venue rolled into one
- Two tasting menus are offered, comprising eight courses representing different ecosystems
This year, Central, in Lima, Peru, was crowned No 1 at the World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards, ending a more than two-decade European and American stranglehold on the list.
Not that the result was entirely unexpected. The South American winner had hovered tantalisingly close to the top for years.
Opened in 2008, Central has become a champion not only of the country’s cuisine, but also its farmers, producers and artisans. At its multipurpose home in the Peruvian capital, chef couple Virgilio Martinez and Pia León take well-heeled guests on a gastronomic expedition through Peru’s rich ecosystems by altitude.
Dishes might include Warm Sea Current, a medley of seafood found 15 metres (50 feet) below sea level in the Pacific Ocean. Or Extreme Altitude, showcasing corn, kiwicha and sweet potato leaves from a dizzying 4,200 metres above sea level.
An issue for would-be diners, however, is that securing a booking at Central is harder than ever since the win. Thankfully, there is an alternative, a culinary pilgrimage that follows the same principles as Central and provides deeper insight into Martinez’s world. And that is Mil.
The location – at the mysterious archaeological site of Moray – is spectacular. Built by the Incas centuries ago, it sits at a breathtaking 3,500 metres above sea level, surrounded by the snow-capped peaks of the Andes mountains.
