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Opinion | History of the highball, Japan’s popular whisky and soda cocktail, from its British and American roots to the origin of its name

  • The highball is associated with high-end Japanese bars, but this cocktail of whisky and soda was popular in Britain and the US decades before it reached Asia
  • The origins of its name are debated, and procedures for preparing it differ between bartenders, but the drink’s beauty undeniably lies in its simplicity

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A chilled highball made with Suntory’s famous Kakubin whisky. There’s a lot more to this Japanese-favourite tipple than you might think. Photo: Shutterstock

The simplest things in life are often the best: sharing a pizza with friends, watching the sunrise with a loved one or sipping a perfectly executed two-ingredient cocktail, such as a whisky and soda, on a sunny day.

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In 2013, while I was cutting my teeth as bartender at the Savoy Hotel in London, I travelled to Japan for the first time. It was in Tokyo, at the Mori Bar in Ginza, that I had my first whisky and soda, also known as the whisky highball. It was a revelation.

While many associate the drink with high-end Japanese bars, the origins of the whisky highball are far humbler – and perhaps even had a British accent.

If we look at the early 1800s, the highball’s closest ancestor would be the brandy and soda, which was popular in England at the time.

A drawing from the 1800s by British illustrator George Cruikshank depicts a man who isn’t feeling well being relieved by his friends with a brandy and soda. Photo: Getty Images
A drawing from the 1800s by British illustrator George Cruikshank depicts a man who isn’t feeling well being relieved by his friends with a brandy and soda. Photo: Getty Images
With the Napoleonic wars halting cognac supplies from across the channel, Scotch became the spirit of necessity, and eventually the concoction crossed the pond, where – to quote cocktail historian David Wondrich and his seminal 2007 work Imbibe – “by 1900, the Scotch highball was the most fashionable drink in America”.
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