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‘I want to be seen as more than a chef’: Shun Sato on his culinary journey from Sendai, Japan to SoHo, Hong Kong via Australia

  • Shun Sato worked in his father’s pub as a boy in Sendai, Japan, and grew up eating so much sashimi, it put him off working in a Japanese restaurant for a while
  • He worked in a French restaurant in Tokyo, Japanese restaurants in Australia, then moved to Hong Kong and opened Censu, and a joint operation, Enishi

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From cooking French food in Tokyo to rediscovering his Japanese roots in Sydney, chef Shun Sato finally found his own style in Hong Kong, where he has opened Censu and Enishi. Photo: Censu

Growing up surrounded by food, Shun Sato seemed destined to become a chef.

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His father owned an izakaya (pub) in the northeastern Japanese city of Sendai. Local workers and businessmen would come for simple fare such as fried or grilled meat and seafood to wash down with beer or sake, and Sato would sometimes help serve customers or do the dishes.

But, if anything, it put him off following in his father’s footsteps.

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“I grew up eating a lot of sashimi,” says Sato. “We would eat it all the time. My dad would bring sashimi home to eat. I got so sick of it, I couldn’t stand it any more.” The last thing he wanted to do was work in a Japanese restaurant.

Sato recently created a special menu for Censu’s first anniversary. Photo: Censu
Sato recently created a special menu for Censu’s first anniversary. Photo: Censu

And yet, the idea of being a chef appealed to him, so at the age of 18, he moved to Tokyo and worked in a French restaurant, determined not to be like his dad.

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