Jam or cream first on scones? A top pastry chef’s verdict, a big lesson learned and his cravings for Hong Kong food in London
- Hong Kong-born Michael Kwan Ho-lam, executive pastry chef at The Dorchester in London, reflects on his career and answers the big question about a UK tradition
- He recalls growing up around food and working in a kitchen while still at school, and talks about introducing Chinese flavours in European desserts
The Dorchester is a stalwart of London’s hotel scene, and now so is Michael Kwan Ho-lam, a Hong Kong-born pastry chef with more than 14 years’ experience in spinning magic out of sugar and flour. In April, he was appointed the historic venue’s new executive pastry chef and now leads a brigade of 25.
A childhood surrounded by food
“All I have known since I was a very little boy is food. I grew up around food; both my uncles were head chefs, which really inspired me to be at that level one day. One of my uncles took me under his wing at a very young age in his restaurant, so I started working there when I was in high school.
“He also took me to different restaurants to try different foods and cuisines and experience different levels of hospitality. He had a lot of friends who would invite him to their restaurant, I just used to tag along.
“In the kitchen it was only me and my uncle; I was his commis chef. I still remember the day I burned myself with a blow torch while caramelising a crème brûlée. I did everything he asked me to do.
“At the crack of dawn, we would go to the market to source the ingredients and later we would start the prep for the dinner service. It’s not like now, when I can just call and get my order within a couple hours.
“It was a private dining restaurant in the middle of busy Hong Kong, serving Western cuisine using local ingredients. It was doing dinner for only 20 covers max. He has since retired and closed that amazing restaurant.”
Growing up with grandparents
