The Corkscrew | A sommelier’s favourite wines, and how the perfect pour is all about timing
- Which white to order if you’ve been denied a red, and why the pop of a champagne cork never gets old
In my work as a sommelier, I’m often asked to name my favourite wines. Well, I’m forever looking for that elusive sip that hits the spot and is just right for the moment.
Bubbles, especially champagne, rarely disappoint. That distinctive “pop” of the cork never fails to get my attention. To me, it heralds a happy occasion. And it’s often the first drink served at wine events.
If I’m in a healthy mood, I’ll look for a wine that’s organic or bio-dynamic, and also environmentally friendly. These wines contain minimal amounts of SO2 (sulphur dioxide), which lessens the chance of an allergic reaction or headache for those who are sensitive to sulphites. That said, SO2 – a natural compound – is necessary to the winemaking process as it helps to maintain stability of the wine in the bottle. It’s a preservative, protecting against oxidation and microbes that would make the drink unpalatable.
The best way to avoid a sulphite reaction is to drink wines that have some age, as the level of SO2 in the bottle decreases over time. I also find that inexpensive or new wines made from young vines tend to have more SO2, which helps maintain the flavours in the bottle. If you’ve ever sniffed a glass of wine that has a burnt aroma reminiscent of a freshly lit wooden match, that is most likely the smell of too much SO2. Decanting makes a difference, even for a white wine. If no decanter is available, pour the wine back and forth between two glasses or even stir the wine with a spoon to aerate it.
When I want a red wine but only white is available I will go for a chardonnay, one that has a fair amount of oak, such as a buttery Napa chardonnay – American winemakers get this flavour just right – with that toasty, vanilla bean, creamy tropical oak that goes so well with shellfish, grilled salmon or a simply roasted or grilled pork belly. The only French chardonnay that comes close is a fairly young Meursault, made by a winemaker bold enough to use heavily toasted oak barrels.
