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Bernice Chan

Spunky 29-year-old designer Hu Ruixian, who launched Studio HHFZ in Singapore five years ago, is passionate about cheongsams and wants to make the traditional Chinese dress something that women can wear every day.
How did you become interested in cheongsams?
“When I was young, I was into fashion and I liked to dress up. So I told myself I wanted to be a fashion designer.
“It didn’t occur to me that I wanted to do cheongsams until I got a job as a designer in a company making cheongsams right after I graduated [from Temasek Polytechnic School of Design] in 2014.
“I didn’t really participate in the making of cheongsams there, but it made me want to branch out on my own because I enjoy the process of making them.”

Most of your orders are for weddings. What do Singaporean brides want?
“A lot of people now don’t really go for Western wedding dresses and in Singapore there’s a lot of interracial marriages between Chinese, Malays and Indians. I like to play around with the cultural aspect of things, so we use sari fabrics and Malay batik fabrics, putting these different elements of the ethnic groups together to become a piece that truly expresses the marriage.
Everything we do is bespoke so it’s really according to your style and your story.”
Who killed the cheongsam? A look at its history and demise
You’ve said any woman can look good in a cheongsam, but how do you help them achieve that?
“I’m not sure about other countries, but in Singapore, we still have a lot of problems with body image, like there’s a certain expectation that we are supposed to look very skinny and busty and that’s something that I want to break out of.
“You don’t have to be skinny to wear a cheongsam. During our consultations, I ask the client which portions of their body they are most insecure about, the places they want to cover up. But at the same time I will try to encourage them, because there’s no point hiding, right?
“We can’t hide it, so then we flaunt it, lah – that’s my mindset.
“Some fabrics, like silk and satin, cling to the body so we can avoid those. If you’re not really confident and you have some parts that you’re insecure about then maybe we’ll use something thicker, like jacquards or brocades, so it’s a bit more comfortable.”

How do you make cheongsams something people will wear every day?
“We still get orders from customers who like a traditional cheongsam so we still do that. But most of the time now, to make it more wearable, we can convert it into a fresh cut silhouette, like a two-piece that makes you look like you’re wearing a one-piece but you have the option of separating it and matching it with your other clothing.
It’s a bit more modern and easy to wear. A fitted cheongsam will show the body quite a bit, so if a client is not that confident we can do an A-line silhouette or a two-piece that sort of covers up the body a little bit and doesn’t emphasise so much.”
Cheongsam, catsuit, silver shades: 5 of Maggie Cheung’s best screen looks
You use a lot of colourful fabric in your designs. Tell us about that.
“I love colours, and colourful fabrics. Usually when I meet a client, I push the boundaries of what they will accept.
“For example, if a person wants to make a simple piece, I’ll ask if they want to explore some cut-outs and if they say they’re not comfortable with showing a lot of skin, then we can just do a small cut.
“And then if it’s a small cut, we can add details to it, like beading trimmings or tassels. It makes every piece unique. I’m a maximalist so I try to get as many details on the dress as possible, but a lot of people are minimalists now.”

Do you help clients repurpose their wedding dresses?
“They see their dress hanging up for a while and they think, ‘What can I do with it?’ And then they reach out, I say, ‘Yeah, we can discuss and see what you’ll be keen to make.’ If it increases the chance of her wearing it then the piece won’t go to waste.
“That’s the whole thing about slow fashion – it is more sustainable. I’m not saying I don’t patronise fast fashion, but it’s nice to have a few pieces of slow fashion and sustainable items in your wardrobe.
“If you own a piece made by me you really support me and my team, a local small business.”


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Fashion

‘You don’t have to be skinny to wear a cheongsam’: Studio HHFZ founder and designer on normalising the traditional Chinese dress

A look from HHFZ.

Studio HHFZ founder and designer Hu Ruixian explains how she and her team are making the traditional Chinese dress something that women can wear every day. 

A look from Studio HHFZ.

A look from Studio HHFZ. “You don’t have to be skinny to wear a cheongsam,” says designer Hu Ruixian.

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Vivian Luk at a recent event in Hong Kong. Photo: Kim Lo

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Fitness trainer Utah Lee in Vivian Luk Atelier. Photo: Kim Lo

A look by Vivian Luk Atelier.

Dresses from the Little Miss Luk collection. Photo: courtesy of Vivian Luk

Luk at an event at the St Regis hotel in Hong Kong. Photo: Kim Lo

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A model sports one of ESP Oslo’s signature wool blankets. Credit: ESP Oslo.

A model walks the runway for Jenny Hytönen during the 2022 International Festival Of Fashion, Photography and Fashion Accessories, in Hyeres, France. The brand is among a number of emerging women-led fashion labels making a splash on the Scandinavian fashion scene. Photo: Arnold Jerocki/Getty Images

A look from Tuuli-Tytti Koivula. Photo: Federico Cabrera

A look from The Garment’s autumn-winter 2023 collection. Photo: Philip Messmann

A model walks the runway for Petra Fagerstrom during the 2023 International Festival Of Fashion, Photography and Fashion Accessories in Hyeres, France. Photo: Arnold Jerocki/Getty Images

A model walks the runway for Jenny Hytönen during the 2022 International Festival Of Fashion, Photography and Fashion Accessories in Hyeres, France. Photo: Arnold Jerocki/Getty Images

A model sports one of ESP Oslo’s signature wool blankets. Photo: ESP Oslo

A look from ESP Oslo’s latest collection. Photo: ESP Oslo

A model wears a design by Tuuli-Tytti Koivula at the Alpha show during Copenhagen Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2023. Photo: Matt Jelonek/Getty Images

A look from Tuuli-Tytti Koivula. Photo: Sofia Okkonen

Five dressmakers keeping alive the qipao, or cheongsam, in Hong Kong by adding modern twists to the traditional Chinese dress

A model wears a cheongsam from Keita Maruyama’s In the Mood for Love collection.

Portrait of qipao maker Henry Tsang and qipao plus fabric at Tenone Ten Three in Sham Shui Po. 29DEC17 [FEATURES] SCMP / Xiaomei Chen

Portrait shot of Keita Maruyama. Photo : Handout [FEATURES 2018]

Ding, owner of the shop Yan Shang Kee in Central. 04JAN18 [FEATURES] SCMP / Jonathan Wong

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Silver sequin qipao from Autumn Winter 2017 collection of Blanc de Chine. Photo : Handout [FEATURES 2018]

Keita Maruyama In the Mood for Love Photo : Handout [FEATURES 2018]

Ding, owner of the shop Yan Shang Kee in Central, poses for a portrait. 04JAN18 [FEATURES] SCMP / Jonathan Wong

Hong Kong’s tiny understairs shops: the Elgin Street tailor who treasures his craft and a sense of community

In the second of a series of portraits of the people still working in tiny spaces under the city’s staircases, we meet a cheongsam maker carving out a humble living surrounded by the swanky restaurants and bars of SoHo

This images shows Yeung Fook, 72, has been a tailor at 8-10 Elgin Street since the ‘40s. He uses a sewing machine to stitch cloths at his shop, Yeung's recalls that there were stalls outside his shop for fresh fruit and vegetables when he first came to work here. Photo: Olivia Chan [2017 FEATURES TRAVEL AND LEISURE]

This images shows Yeung Fook, 72, has been a tailor at 8-10 Elgin Street since the ‘40s. He lives not far away on Hollywood Road with his wife. Photo: Olivia Chan [2017 FEATURES TRAVEL AND LEISURE]

This images shows Yeung Fook, 72, has been a tailor at 8-10 Elgin Street since the ‘40s. Ruler on the left follows the Chinese metric system while the one on the right is an English ruler. Photo: Olivia Chan [2017 FEATURES TRAVEL AND LEISURE]

This images shows Yeung Fook, 72, has been a tailor at 8-10 Elgin Street since the ‘40s. Some of the residence on the same building play Mahjong with him in the afternoon. Photo: Olivia Chan [2017 FEATURES TRAVEL AND LEISURE]

Yeung Fook, 72, has been a tailor at Man Hing on Elgin Street for around 30 years, having started as an apprentice in nearby Wellington Street at the age of 14. Photo: Olivia Chan

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Fashion & Beauty

Hu Ruixian, 29, launched Studio HHFZ in Singapore five years ago with the aim of making the traditional Chinese dress something that women can wear every day
She and her team are modernising the cheongsam by playing with fabrics, colours, shapes and more – they do not want anyone to feel like they cannot wear one


Studio HHFZ founder and designer Hu Ruixian explains how she and her team are making the traditional Chinese dress something that women can wear every day no matter what.


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