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Weiss, IWC and Bell & Ross: three aviation watches for high-fliers

  • Big, bold aviation-inspired watches that pay tribute to vintage design elements
  • Despite lacking on heritage, some watchmakers, like Weiss and Bell & Ross, are hitting the spot with their offerings

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The Special Issue watch from Weiss, the brand dedicated to ‘restoring prestige to American watchmaking’.
Martin Scorsese is in the news again, and not just for his new film, The Irishman – which is a masterpiece even if your bladder will not forgive you for the 3.5-hour runtime. No, ol’ Marty has decided to take on the nerds in Hollywood by decrying the spate of superhero films that have clogged up multiplexes in recent years, describing them as “not cinema”. Scorsese’s long-time friend Francis Ford Coppola has also weighed in, calling Marvel films “despicable”.
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These two old-timers might have a point though. Are we on Iron Man 6? Captain America 4? Thor 5? I don’t know any more, I’ve stopped caring and I grew up reading comic books.

While I ponder on whether I’ve become old, curmudg­eonly and miserable, we’ll crack on with the watches. This week the theme is aviation watches. Mr Porterhas been adding more and more interesting watches from brands I’m not all that familiar with, such as Weiss, an American company established by watchmaker Cameron Weiss, in 2013. A blurb on the brand’s website says Weiss is “restoring prestige to American watchmaking”, which might seem a bit overblown but the approach is the right one, with pieces that lean heavily on the greatest hits of the past and give them more hipster cred.

The Special Issue watchtakes inspiration from several aviation watches of the 1940s, 50s and 60s but the look is fresh and modern. The off-white dialis a winning contrast with the deep-brown leather strap and 42mm steel case. Features are simple with only a small seconds dial. Inside is a Swiss mech­anical move­ment with a 46-hour power reserve but it’s nothing spectacular. The watch is assembled in Los Angeles, which is a novelty. The Special Issue is priced at HK$9,800.

IWC’s Big Pilot watch.
IWC’s Big Pilot watch.
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When it comes to IWC aviation watches, I waver on picking a favourite. Today, I’m feeling like a big boy and loving the Big Pilot, even though my wrists are inadequate to pull it off. The 46mm steel monster is notable for its over­sized crown and heavy-duty, two-pin leather strap, all of which screams “look at me”.

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