Three timeless new watches from Bell & Ross, Oris and Nomos

B&R kicks off a new collection with a doozy, the BR05, while Nomos proves it has appeal beyond the black turtleneck design crowd

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Published: 7:00pm, 16 Sep 2019Updated: 7:00pm, 16 Sep 2019

Ah, Mid-Autumn is upon us! Now, given the occasion the orthodox move here would have been a lunar-themed watch column, you know, moon-phase timepieces, that sort of thing. But, being a maverick I’m consistently inconsistent, shooting from the hip and zagging where others expect me to zig … Actually, the truth is I totally forgot the holiday was coming and I played my moon-watch card a few weeks back like a rank amateur.

This week, just to underline the lack of planning, there’s no real theme beyond three new watches that caught my eye and we start proceedings with the Bell & Ross BR05, which is not only a new watch but an entirely new collection. I’m going to try and contain the hyperbole here but this watch has shot into my top 10 for the year, possibly even top five, as it hits so many of my design predilections: the masculine industrial styling of the case that has shades of the 1970s; the use of steel; the integrated strap, which is another throwback; and the new spin of the brand’s signature square dial.

The lead watch in a new collection has to be strong and this is more than that, it has the makings of a classic. Yes, the BR05 leans heavily on its influences – there’s a dash of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak here, a pinch of the Patek Philippe Nautilus and a soupçon of the Girard Perregaux Laureato – but all great things build on other great things. Am I over selling this? Probably. But if you’re into industrial retro pieces and can’t spring for an AP, then this is a more than worthy alternative.

Inside the 40mm case is a BR-CAL.321 automatic movement. Features include a date window and 100 metres of water resistance. The BR05 comes with either a rubber strap (HK$35,900/US$4,590) or a steel one (HK$39,900) and there are three dial colour options (blue, grey and black).

The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date in bronze.

OK, I’ve gushed a little too hard over the BR05, but I have let my eyes wander and size up a few other watches, including the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date in bronze. I’m sort of neutral on Oris. It makes excellent watches, generally speaking, but its new pieces don’t grab me all that often. This bronze edition of the Big Crown Pointer Date, however, is a winner.