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Indelible City, Louisa Lim’s homage to those who love Hong Kong, gives plenty of cause for pause

  • Raised in Hong Kong, journalist Lim was in the city researching graffiti artist Tsang Tsou-choi when anti-government protests broke out in June 2019
  • She has woven his life, the events of that summer which saw Lim paint protest banners, and the 1980s Sino-British negotiations into a book about the city

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Graffiti painter Tsang Tsou-choi, better known as the King of Kowloon. Author Louisa Lim, in her new book Indelible City, calls him “a prism through which Hong Kong’s story could be viewed”. Photo: SCMP

For years, journalist Louisa Lim wanted to write a book about Tsang Tsou-choi, better known as the King of Kowloon. He’d spent decades painting his semi-literate graffiti – what Lim calls his “wonky, shonky calligraphy” – around Hong Kong, including on postboxes and lamp posts. He’d claimed that Kowloon was his ancestral property, illegally seized by the British and then, after the handover, by China.

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Initially, Tsang was considered a vandal with mental health problems; he’d spent 18 months in Castle Peak psychiatric hospital and later lived in a flat so fetid that sensitive visitors vomited. By the time he died in 2007, however, his work had appeared at the Venice Biennale and in Sotheby’s salesrooms, and he’d been cast in the role of valued eccentric.

In 2011, a Taikoo Place exhibition was titled “Memories of King Kowloon [sic]”. That, Lim says, “was when the inkling was planted in my mind”.

In the prologue to her new book, Indelible City: Dispossession and Defiance in Hong Kong, she describes Tsang as “a shaman, a truth-teller, a holy fool” and “a prism through which Hong Kong’s story could be viewed […] a David and Goliath tale”. Sometimes, she writes, “it seemed like the King was guiding me from beyond the grave – breadcrumbing my trail to Hong Kong’s most interesting thinkers”.
Louisa Lim in Hong Kong in 2019. The second big anti-government protest in the city in June of that year gave the University of Melbourne journalism lecturer “that sense of rightness in your gut”. Photo: K.Y. Cheng
Louisa Lim in Hong Kong in 2019. The second big anti-government protest in the city in June of that year gave the University of Melbourne journalism lecturer “that sense of rightness in your gut”. Photo: K.Y. Cheng
Rather like the city’s M+ museum of visual culture, which placed a pair of doors daubed by Tsang in his declining years at the entrance to its “Hong Kong: Here and Beyond” exhibition, she’s employing him to tell a tale. Can the head that wears the crown also bear the weight of such metaphor?
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