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Review | From Ai Weiwei and Cai Guoqiang to trousers in Xinjiang 3,000 years old, cultural historian’s eclectic essays about contemporary Asian art mix erudition and whimsy

  • A collection of essays by cultural historian David Elliott, a former director of art museums in Oxford, Istanbul, and Tokyo, is as erudite as it eclectic
  • He writes with authority about contemporary art from Japan, China, Turkey, Central Asia and the former Soviet Union, and with an eye for fascinating facts

Reading Time:3 minutes
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A still from Kazakhstani artist Almagul Menlibayeva’s video artwork Transoxiana Dreams, featured in David Elliott’s book. The British cultural historian is well-informed about contemporary art in Central Asia, China, Japan, Turkey and the former Soviet Union. Photo: courtesy American Eurasian Art Advisors LLC

Art & Trousers: Tradition and Modernity in Contemporary Asian Art by David Elliott, pub. ArtAsiaPacific Foundation

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Trousers. A simple word that somehow has a ring of blustering pomposity about it. The item of clothing is, for cultural historian David Elliott, a symbol of the spread of Western imperialism, which exculpates the acquisition of territories by insisting on the West’s superiority compared with places where men wore the sarong, the changpao, the hakama. Hence the whimsical title of this hefty anthology.

Art & Trousers is a 368-page selection of writings by Elliott, a British curator and former museum director who has spent more than 40 years dispelling the myth that European and North American modern and contemporary art is more interesting than that produced elsewhere in the world.

For 20 of those years, beginning in 1976, Elliott was director of the Museum of Modern Art in Oxford in the UK, and there, he writes, he created a more international programme than most of his peers in Europe. Then, in 2001, he decamped to Tokyo, and later, Istanbul, in Turkey, and ran museums in both cities. He describes his move abroad as a turning point that allowed “an engaged and interested voyeur from beyond” to become “a flâneur within the fabric” of different cultures.

Modern Girls, or “moga”, in Ginza, Tokyo, featured in Art & Trousers: Tradition and Modernity in Contemporary Asian Art by David Elliott. Photo: ArtAsiaPacific
Modern Girls, or “moga”, in Ginza, Tokyo, featured in Art & Trousers: Tradition and Modernity in Contemporary Asian Art by David Elliott. Photo: ArtAsiaPacific

That journey is captured in well-informed essays he has written since 1988 on art from Japan, China (including Tibet), Turkey, Central Asia, and the former Soviet Union, as well as 25 (of 35) chapters about Asian artists with whom Elliott has worked, from big hitters such as Ai Weiwei and Cai Guoqiang to lesser-knowns, including Japanese-Swiss painter and sculptor Leiko Ikemura and Thailand’s Chatchai Puipia.

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The dense, heavily footnoted pieces reflect Elliott’s hunger to understand the world through art (an approach that can take the focus away from the artworks themselves). He has tried to knit together the diverse range of subjects with three new essays about the history of the two-legged garment and how its appearances in art may convey the thrills and tumults of a rapidly globalising world.

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