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Review | The meaning of make-up and why it’s far from a frivolous enhancement

  • Author Rae Nudson has taken a deep dive into beauty culture and its history. Her conclusion: make-up should not be underestimated as a force for change
  • She ranges across issues from the vapid cosmetic questions the first American woman in space was asked, to Hong Kong domestic helpers denied the use of make-up

Reading Time:3 minutes
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Kim Kardashian in Paris. Author Rae Nudson examines the reality-TV star turned billionaire businesswoman’s influence over beauty trends. Photo:  Marc Piasecki/GC Images

All Made Up: The Power and Pitfalls of Beauty Culture, from Cleopatra to Kim Kardashian, by Rae Nudson, pub. Beacon Press

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In All Made Up, Rae Nudson does a deep dive into subjects that might not seem, at first sight, to have much to do with how women choose their eyeshadow. But in crafting the book, the Chicago-based journalist, who reports on beauty, fashion and pop culture, connects the dots linking anthropology, gender politics, labour laws, sexual mores and racism, and correlates them with the gargantuan industry that is beauty.

The result is a compelling read that proves make-up is not, nor has it ever been, just about gloss and glamour. This is an industry, after all, that is evidently predicated on superficiality and vanity. Cosmetics, convention might dictate, are not necessary for survival. They do not sustain life. They are dispensable.

Yet while Nudson does not set out to challenge that notion head on, she does persuade the reader to think about make-up differently, to question whether we need it, what it means to cultures around the world and how it has evolved. Essentially, the book serves to validate the existence of products long held as frivolous. With reams of research at her fingertips, Nudson proves that make-up is anything but.

Indonesian drag queen Nury applies make-up before performing in a bar in Bali in 2018. Trans women use make-up to hide their masculinity, Rae Nudson writes. Photo: Ulet Ifansasti/Getty Images
Indonesian drag queen Nury applies make-up before performing in a bar in Bali in 2018. Trans women use make-up to hide their masculinity, Rae Nudson writes. Photo: Ulet Ifansasti/Getty Images

In her introductory chapter, “Why We Need to Talk About Makeup”, Nudson asserts that cosmetics are not just about colour and texture, but that how or whether someone is done up speaks volumes about them.

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“Appearance matters because as soon as someone steps into view, they send visual signals that could trigger unconscious judgments,” she writes. “People may not be aware of what they are presenting to others, but those signals may affect people’s lives in big and small ways every day […] No one can stop themselves from being seen.”

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