Walking on water: island hopping the Seto Inland Sea

Through the dense steam rising from the onsen, Jupiter is clearly visible over the twinkling black waters of the Seto Inland Sea. It's not hard to see why this hotel is called Bella Vista; it lies tucked into the hills outside the historic town of Onomichi, commanding sublime views of the sea's misty islands. What's more, the onsen is open to the elements, allowing fresh sea breezes to caress the skin of bathers as they boil themselves blissfully to a jelly.

The islands are part of the Seto Inland Sea National Park, which is celebrating its 80th anniversary this year, making it one of Japan's three oldest national parks.

Tomorrow, my wife and I will be motoring across that sea, via the Shimanami Kaido, a spectacular 60km road and bridge network connecting Japan's main island of Honshu to Shikoku (the country's fourth-largest island). Starting here in Onomichi, in Hiroshima prefecture, the route will take us across six smaller stepping-stone-like islands before arriving way down in Imabari (Ehime prefecture).

delightful old port town, packed with ancient temples and literary connections. It's built on a hill-side overlooking the sea, and the top of Senkoji Hill, which towers 500 feet (150m) over the inhabitants, offers stunning panoramas. The ascent by ropeway is short but breathtaking and a steep, winding trail known as the Path of Literature leads you back down.

Along the path, and dotted among fragrant, cicada-loud pines, are 25 boulders, all of which are inscribed with quotations from famous writers who have lived here over the centuries. Halfway down lies the vermillion-lacquered majesty of the Senkoji Temple. Established in 806, it's one of Onomichi's most iconic symbols, and one of Japan's oldest places of worship.