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Life.Culture.Discovery.

City scope: bless the babas

Nick Walker in Phuket

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Peranakan, and are terms used to describe the descendants of male Chinese immigrants to Southeast Asia - from Java, Indonesia, to Phuket, Thailand - who arrived between the 16th and 19th centuries, married local women and started new lives, spawning a unique hybrid culture.

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The word " " is derived from Hindi (it's an honorific to address a respected elder) and came to refer to ethnic Chinese and mixed-race men born in these communities. Women of this provenance were dubbed "nyonya", a Malay word (derived from the Portuguese for "grandmother") and originally used for non-Malay women of high social standing.

A temple entrance in Phuket's Old Town. Photo: Corbis
A temple entrance in Phuket's Old Town. Photo: Corbis
The most conspicuous Peranakan communities took root in Singapore and parts of present-day Malaysia, such as Malacca and Penang. However, Peranakan settlers inhabited other parts of Southeast Asia, including Phuket, where the 19th-century "tin-rush" attracted Chinese and adventurers and fortune-seekers in their thousands.

The Peranakan community here is dubbed "Phuket Baba" - and now their enduring roots in Phuket island's only city (as Phuket Town is, in size and official designation) will be honoured with a museum.

The Old Town is the heart of the city's Phuket Baba community, as evidenced by its well-restored shophouse architecture. Enriched by tin, the local Peranakan community became one of the wealthiest in Southeast Asia, and most of the elegant Sino-colonial buildings in the Old Town were the original homes of well-to-do Peranakan families. The Old Town is now an attractive tourism draw and an elegant 103-year-old, two-storey structure - originally the Standard Chartered Bank, and once used as a police station - located at a key intersection in the district will house the museum. Unused for years, the structure was taken over by the Phuket City Municipality, which authorised its use as a museum in 2010.

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The 50 million baht (HK$12 million) undertaking is being overseen by the Thai Peranakan Association. On display will be artefacts, apparel, furniture, art and traditional Phuket Baba garments. The museum will also be a repository for Phuket Baba historical records.

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