Ushidoki restaurant review: A multi-course kaiseki meal with Wagyu as its highlight, in Hong Kong’s Central

If this issue of Good Eating wasn’t proof enough, Hongkongers can’t get enough of Wagyu beef. But the more crowded the marketplace, the harder it is to stand out. So what’s a restaurant to do?

Enter Ushidoki, here to offer not just Odagyu Wagyu but Wagyu kaiseki. The most intricate of Japanese culinary traditions, the full multi-course kaiseki meal is a rare find in Hong Kong, and open to significant criticism if not done properly. Fortunately, farm-to-table Japanese dining group AP Place Hong Kong Co Limited has got its ducks – or cows – in a nice neat row.

Ushidoki offers a multi-course “tongue-to-tail” Wagyu feast sourced exclusively from the acclaimed Oda Farm in Japan’s Kagoshima Prefecture. This exceptional culinary experience is curated by seasoned chefs Yoshiyuki Kikuchi, known for his artistic and authentic interpretation of kaiseki dining culture, and Michinori Hasegawa, a 45-year veteran of leading Japanese kitchens. The concept has already proven to be a hit in Singapore and looks set to repeat the feat here.

There are separate lunch (HK$1,300) and dinner (HK$2,000) offerings. Varying according to the season and the weather, the two menus are testaments to the versatility of Odagyu. Highlights include the beef tartare with caviar and sea urchin, which comes elegantly constructed in a spiky glass bowl. It’s a powerful array of flavours but the caviar helps cut through both the sweetness of the beef and the powerful uni.

The house signature sirloin cutlet sandwich comes smothered in truffle sauce and is one of the most succulent in the city – also crowned with caviar and uni. The chilled shabu-shabu with Tosa vinegar, sprinkled with karasumi, is incredibly fresh and provides sour notes that serve as a welcome aside from the other rich and savoury dishes.

Shop 2B, 1/F, Manning House, 38-48 Queen’s Road Central, Central